<div dir="ltr"><div>I am doing the same job at the moment.</div><div>On my car of the 8 rails with those stud/bolts every rail has at least one stripped - above and below - most have 2.</div><div>Why are they prone to this thread stripping ?</div><div>Poor quality ? or just over-tightening over the years ?</div><div>I initially replaced all the upstairs nuts with gr 8 plus extra washers - probably made things worse !</div><div>Just wondering ...</div><div>rg<br></div></div><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
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</table><a href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width="1" height="1"></a></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 7:43 AM Curtis Arndt <<a href="mailto:cnaarndt@gmail.com">cnaarndt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">More photos...</div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 7:19 AM Curtis Arndt <<a href="mailto:cnaarndt@gmail.com" target="_blank">cnaarndt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">Hi All,<div><br></div><div>Restoring the seat sliders is fairly straightforward.</div><div><br></div><div>First, there is no need to grind away a broken 1/4" stud. I simply placed the slider in my "Arbor Press" and the spot welds have ALWAYS broken away cleanly! See photo.</div><div><br></div><div>Attaching the chrome seat slide lever with the two rivets is made much simpler by using "Push Pins" versus hammering the end flat.
See photo.
</div><div><br></div><div>New studs can easily be made using properly sized hex bolts and grinding / filing the head into the proper circular shape and thickness.
See photo.
</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div><br></div><div>Curt</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Jan 2, 2021 at 2:26 PM Bob Haskell <<a href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net" target="_blank">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Simon,<br>
<br>
The tee nuts - 9/16" hex. The turned down section is 3/8" diameter, <br>
3/8" tall. 1/4-28 internal threads. 5/8" overall length.<br>
<br>
In the US, Moss Motors price is $3 each.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar<br>
<br>
On 1/2/21 2:46 PM, <a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com" target="_blank">simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</a> wrote:<br>
><br>
> First of all, thank you for the responses. All very helpful. Now I <br>
> know exactly where I should be. Should be!<br>
><br>
> However, some ham-fisted cretin has been in there before me. I find <br>
> that the slides are held down to the floor by bolts whose shank size <br>
> is 3/8”. They’ve each had two of their flats ground down and they pass <br>
> through 3/8” holes in the bottom half of the slides and thence through <br>
> the floor to the outside.<br>
><br>
> I think that it’ll be too much trouble to replace them but, just in <br>
> case, :-<br>
><br>
> What is the outside diameter of the so-called tube nut or t-nuts which <br>
> should be coming up from below?<br>
><br>
> And what size are the bolts which come down from the slides/runners, <br>
> through the floor and into the tube nuts? ¼” unf 28tpi at a wild <br>
> guess? Or bigger?<br>
><br>
> See attached.<br>
><br>
> And, finally, is there another name for these “tube nuts” by which <br>
> they might be found and bought at a sensible price? From their prices <br>
> over here, they seem to be made of platinum.<br>
><br>
> Thanks,<br>
><br>
> Simon<br>
><br>
><br>
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