<html><body>A very critical point here is the proper placement of the short upper stator tube into the lower, long tube. There is an indent (slot) in the lower tube and the bumps on the upper stator must insert into that indent. Carefully push the upper into the lower lining up these two locations. If you previously loosened the olive, you must now rotate the trafficator to be vertical at the lever, lock the olive and then affix the two (early cars) or three (all later cars) grub screws to have the unit work correctly as one.<div><br></div><div>If you force the upper stator into the lower stator you then distort the tube and as you say get a "sloppy trafficator".<br><br>New Year greetings to all-Hank<br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Tom Mitchell" <drtommitch@gmail.com><br>To: "Michael Oritt"<br>Cc: "Austin Healey"<br>Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 10:10:09AM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel<br><br>
<div>One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing
the bullet ends is easy and safer) is that if you try to force the
connectors you stand the risk of expanding the tube.
<div>I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the
wires through. I didn't notice the damage until later. The results
is a sloppy trafficator.</div>
<div>Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt<br><br>
Tom</div>
<div><br><div>Dr. Tom
Mitchell</div>
</div>
</div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM
Michael Oritt <<a>michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff;"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:'Times New Roman', serif;font-size:16px;">
"Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires
back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the
wheel/hub."</span><br></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff;"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:'Times New Roman', serif;font-size:16px;">
----------------------------------------------------------</span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff;"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:'Times New Roman', serif;font-size:16px;">
I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the
condition of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them
off and use new ones once I pulled the wires down through the
stator tube.</span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff;"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:'Times New Roman', serif;font-size:16px;">
This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in
pulling the wires with connectors in place please consider cutting
them off and renewing them as I did.</span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff;"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:'Times New Roman', serif;font-size:16px;">
<br></span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff;"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:'Times New Roman', serif;font-size:16px;">
Best--Michael Oritt</span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff;"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:'Times New Roman', serif;font-size:16px;">
<br></span></div>
</div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM
Bruce Steele <<a>healeybruce@roadrunner.com</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px .8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
<div lang="en-us">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">If you do pull
the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to plug the
orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I’m
ready to run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up
from the box, tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow
for clearance through the stator, and pull them through. It’s
messy. Unless you REALLY need to remove the wheel, just work
around it. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Bruce
Steele</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Brea,
CA</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1960
BN7</span></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span></p>
<div>
<div style="border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top:1pt solid rgb(225,225,225);padding:3pt 0in 0in;">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;">From:</span></b>
<span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;">Healeys
[mailto:<a>healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On
Behalf Of</b> Richard Kahn<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM<br><b>To:</b> Bob Spidell <<a>bspidell@comcast.net</a>>;
<a>healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] wheel</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;color:#000000;">Attach a string or
wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You can stagger
the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you may
be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected
after you get the trafficator off.</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;color:#000000;">I would not mess with
the steering box if you don't have to. I have just "unwired" the
trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note
which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few
times.</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;color:#000000;"> </span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;color:#000000;">Rich</span></p>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center;">
<hr size="2" width="98%" align="center"></div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;color:#000000;">From:</span></b>
<span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri, sans-serif;color:#000000;">Healeys
<<a>healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf
of Bob Spidell <<a>bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a>healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a>healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] wheel</span></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12pt;">The wheel is a
piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has
to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to
disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull
the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack
in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and
disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things
considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering
box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you loosen the
olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, non-standard
screws, which have a tendency to evaporate.<br><br>
Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires
back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the
wheel/hub.<br><br>
Bob</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top:5pt;margin-bottom:5pt;">
<p><span style="font-family:Tahoma, sans-serif;">How much trouble is
it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how much
trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way
temporarily. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-family:Tahoma, sans-serif;">Mike</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</blockquote>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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