<html><body>Good news, the starter is rebuilt and back on the car. When I removed it I had the brake booster out for rebuilding, so the starter came out the bottom. With the booster returned to its original position, the starter now has to go in from the top. With the oil filter mounting out, and the plastic distributor cap out of the way, if feeds in pinion up, very nicely...then as mentioned previously, spend some more quality time fixing the two 9/16" bolts, lock washers and nuts. Upon returning the oil filter unit to the car, charge it half full of new oil and a new filter and change the engine oil if necessary. That's done.<div><br></div><div>At Kees suggestion, I then removed the generator and checked the brushes for wear. This item was OK and in good condition after almost 72K miles. Perry, hold onto those spare units-there is a need for armatures. Hank<br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: gradea1@charter.net<br>To: "healeyguy@aol.com"<br>Cc: "rfbegani@gmail.com", "healeys@autox.team.net"<br>Sent: Friday December 11 2020 1:50:14PM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter<br><br>
I just "yanked" my BJ8 starter after 70,000+ miles and took it to
Don' Auto Electric (he does Leno items), The car was starting
slowly and in a "rolling" fashion and I had suspected a worn motor
mount. No, it was the starter-armature was egg shaped and Don said
it was the worst he has seen in 30 years! However, he also
indicated that the Lucas item was very robust and although he said
he couldn't see how the car was ever starting, it was.
<div><br></div>
<div>The bad news is that armatures, or rewound ones, are no where
to be found. I finally located a used one in better shape
than mine and he is rebuilding the unit. Here are pics of a 60 year
old working starter. After about an hour of fiddling it will go
right back on the car without removing the tunnel or engine...hint:
remove the oil filter at the block connection and it makes it
easier to fish. Then spend some quality time putting the two
9/16" bolts back in place. More Healey fun, but who's going
anywhere anyway? Hank, healeyhelper.com<br><br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "healeyguy--- via Healeys"<br>
To: "rfbegani@gmail.com"<br>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net"<br>
Sent: Thursday December 10 2020 6:01:06PM<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction
starter<br><br>
Bob<br>
Can't speak to the gear reduction units.<br>
Long ago, usually because original parts were not available, old
timers would try other British parts on our Austin Healeys to keep
those $300-$700 cars on the road. With some work a Lucas starter
from a Jaguar (in this case part number 26183B, pretty sure its
from a Jag MK2, will fit in a six cylinder AH. Fit issue is between
the starter case and the engine block. Some grinding or file work
required. Anyway these starters are a bit more stout and will spin
the AH easily. I don't have the specs on both starters but every
thing seems to be bigger in the Jag unit. As stated by others a
stock starter will do the job if its in good nick but how much
regular maintenance gets done on a starter. Just another piece of,
perhaps, useless info.<br>
Perry<br><br><br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Bob Begani <rfbegani@gmail.com><br>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Thu, Dec 10, 2020 2:55 pm<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction
starter<br><br>
You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run
because of overheating. the engine did turn over with a
wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan. So I
will replace the starter. Many of you have
recommended a gear reduction starter which is available
from Moss and others. What source do you recomend.?
Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the
gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without
having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out
the tunnel to get to the starter bolts.<br><br>
Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was
the oil pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops
to less that 20 psi at idle. This engine was rebuilt with
only 20 over and is using the same cam etc. what oil
pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable
replacement?<br>
Regards,<br>
Bob Begani<br><br>
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