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My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries
and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially
installed the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade
8 split washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter
to a local shop, who said the starter checked-out fine. When I
re-installed it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter worked!
Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the engine
paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers cut through the
paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if grade 8 hardware
is less conductive than grade 5, but since the starter is grounded
through the engine plate you need a good connection there (IOW,
scrape the paint off).<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via
Healeys wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net">
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<div dir="auto">I expect you've already checked other possible
reasons for hard starting issues, but I had a problem a few
years ago that turned out to be a poor connection at a battery
terminal resulting in high resistance. Just a thought before
you start replacing things is to check connections and grounds.</div>
<div dir="auto">John O'Brien</div>
<div dir="auto">'61 bugeye (Lucy)</div>
<div dir="auto">'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)</div>
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<div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Sent from my
Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e.</div>
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<div dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000" align="left">
<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.teaadycheckedm.net"><healeys@autox.teaady
checked m.net></a> </div>
<div>Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
<div>To: Bob Begani <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com"><rfbegani@gmail.com></a> </div>
<div>Cc: Ahealey help <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a> </div>
<div>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear
reduction starter </div>
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<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" class="gmail_default">Bob--</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" class="gmail_default"><br>
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<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" class="gmail_default">As said
you can install the starter from under the car. Though the
adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all
applications usually there is only one position that will fit
on each car so you will probably have to play with things a
bit before you find the correct set-up.</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" class="gmail_default"><br>
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<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" class="gmail_default">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
<div style="color:#3333ff" class="gmail_default"><br>
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<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56
PM Bob Begani <<a href="mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">rfbegani@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex" class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not
start after a run because of overheating. the engine did
turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it
only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you have
recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from
Moss and others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see
it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears. Will
it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to
remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the
tunnel to get to the starter bolts.
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<div>Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the
engine was the oil pump. When the engine is hot the oil
pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle. This engine
was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam
etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump
a reasonable replacement?</div>
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<div>Regards,</div>
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