<div dir="auto">I think Alan is on the right track but suspect that the vaporization could be happening on the inlet side of the pump. <div dir="auto">The lower pressure on the suction side of the pump combined with the elevated temperatures due to the proximity of the exhaust can result in boiling of the fuel in the line before it reaches the pump. </div><div dir="auto">As gaseous fuel is compressible the pump cannot "hydraulic lock" to keep the points open so it just keeps tick ticking away passing gaseous fuel toward the carburetors which can be sufficient to keep the engine running.</div><div dir="auto">The situation tends to deteriorate when you try to drive uphill because the pressure at the pump inlet becomes even lower, as the pump is elevated above the fuel level, and the engine demands more fuel to climb the hill ☹.</div><div dir="auto">The best solutions are to try to keep the fuel lines before the pump protected from exhaust heat, ensure that there are absolutely no leaks in the line ahead of the pump and that there are no restrictions, such as an inline filter ahead of the pump.</div><div dir="auto">Many modern cars utilize an insulating sleeve over fuel lines to minimize heat transfer ... may be worth considering. </div><div dir="auto">M</div><div dir="auto"><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun., Jun. 21, 2020, 10:09 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <<a href="mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com">healey.nut@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">Hi Gary -<div><br></div><div>If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long trips. It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the overflow tube. As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might use more fuel than normal. Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.</div><div><br></div><div>Best,</div><div><br></div><div>Alan</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
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<div><font size="2">Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.</font></div>
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Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since. <br>
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<div><font size="2">Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times. <br>
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<div><font size="2">Anyone?</font></div>
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<div><font size="2">Gary Anderson</font></div>
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