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--></style></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>My understanding is that anti seize was developed for higher temperature threaded connections along with a few other things long ago.. </p><p class=MsoNormal>If you look at recommendations from manufacturers of splined connections, like the slip joint in driveshafts, they say to use grease. </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Sent from <a href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986">Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div style='mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:sentenac.rw@gmail.com">Roland Wilhelmy</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Sunday, May 10, 2020 9:54 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href="mailto:healeyguy@aol.com">Perry</a><br><b>Cc: </b><a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs</p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>Maybe anti seize hadn't been invented when the manual was written. Anti seize surely does get onto every surface once you apply it in one place. </p><div><p class=MsoNormal>-Roland</p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal>On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:48 PM Perry via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</p></div><blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just go back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the maintenance or service of the wire wheel splines, “A little grease should be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before refitting.”</p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Perry</p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> </p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Sent from <a href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986" target="_blank">Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> </p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;margin-bottom:12.0pt'><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca" target="_blank">Mirek Sharp</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href="mailto:healeyguy@aol.com" target="_blank">'Perry'</a></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this list </span><span lang=EN-CA style='font-family:Wingdings'>J</span><span lang=EN-CA>), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for grease. Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas the intent of applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., lubricate). For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines. A very fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate. Also, providing it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub. Not to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time?</span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA> </span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>Cheers, Mirek</span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'>Subject:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'> Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs</span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA> </span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon. If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor.</span></p><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA> </span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer! Flat ears? you betcha.</span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA> </span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub. </span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA> </span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span lang=EN-CA>Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank</span></p><p><span lang=EN-CA>-----------------------------------------</span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span lang=EN-CA>From: "Perry via Healeys" <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs</span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>Michael et al,</span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. </span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement.</span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. </span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>What else holds the wheel in place…the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either.</span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough. </span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. </span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>Gentlemen, remember your Mother today!</span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>Perry</span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA> </span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA>Sent from <a href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986" target="_blank">Mail</a> for Windows 10</span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA> </span></p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA><br><b>Subject: </b>[Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III</span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA> </span></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs?</span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Mike MacLean</span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=EN-CA> </span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> </p></div></div></blockquote></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:0in;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:12.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt'>_______________________________________________<br>Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested annual donation $12.75<br><br>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br><a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw@gmail.com" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw@gmail.com</a></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>