<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">I agree with Bob and think this is a perfect example of what happens to flat tappet cams without adequate zddp levels.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">In 2007 before the effects of lower zddp levels in oil were well known I lost a brand new race cam in my MGA-powered Courier in one weekend.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 7:31 AM Tom Felts <<a href="mailto:tomfelts@windstream.net" target="_blank">tomfelts@windstream.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div><div>Val VR1 20/50 racing oil--"High Zinc". Been using in it my Healey and XKE for a long time.</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>----- Original Message -----<br>From: Michael MacLean <<a href="mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net" target="_blank">rrengineer.mike@att.net</a>><br>To: Wayne Schultz <<a href="mailto:waschu2@gmail.com" target="_blank">waschu2@gmail.com</a>>, <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>, Perry <<a href="mailto:healeyguy@aol.com" target="_blank">healeyguy@aol.com</a>><br>Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 01:05:32 -0400 (EDT)<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Additives<br></div><div><br></div><div style="font-family:"times new roman","new york",times,serif;font-size:16px"><div dir="ltr">You can get "Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50" for Harley Davidson type motorcycles in a pinch. It contains the ZDDP required for our cars. If you want conventional oil I have used Kendall GT-1 Competition 20W-50 in my Healeys and MGB for years. All the ZDDP you need plus other additives to protect your followers and camshaft at shutdown. You can get the Kendall oil at Pacific Northwest or Amazon or directly from Kendall. Search around the internet for the best price. You can find it for half the price of the Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic oil.<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr"><a href="https://www.bpnorthwest.com/kendall-gt-1-high-performance-20w-50-oil.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">British Parts Northwest Kendall GT-1 High Performance 20W-50 Oil</a></div><div><br></div><div id="gmail-m_156899261322787454gmail-m_-616499678377597361ydp84c9e869enhancr_card_8594183770" style="max-width:400px;font-family:YahooSans,"Helvetica Neue","Segoe UI",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif"><table style="max-width:400px" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr><td width="400"><table style="max-width:400px;border-radius:2px;border:1px solid rgb(224,228,233)" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr><td><table style="background-color:rgb(255,255,255);background-repeat:repeat;background-image:none;background-size:auto;width:100%;max-width:400px;border-radius:0px 0px 2px 2px;border-top:1px solid rgb(224,228,233)" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr><td style="background-color:rgb(255,255,255);padding:16px 0px 16px 12px;vertical-align:top;border-radius:0px 0px 0px 2px"></td><td style="vertical-align:middle;padding:12px 24px 16px 12px;width:99%;font-family:YahooSans,"Helvetica Neue","Segoe UI",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;border-radius:0px 0px 2px"><h2 style="font-size:14px;line-height:19px;margin:0px 0px 6px;font-family:YahooSans,"Helvetica Neue","Segoe UI",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;color:rgb(38,40,42);max-width:314px">British Parts Northwest Kendall GT-1 High Performance 20W-50 Oil</h2><p style="font-size:12px;line-height:16px;margin:0px;color:rgb(151,155,167)">The correct motor oil is getting harder and hard to find for your Classic British car. Don't believe that the o...</p></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><div style="font-family:"times new roman","new york",times,serif;font-size:16px"><div><br></div><div dir="ltr">Mike MacLean<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><div id="gmail-m_156899261322787454gmail-m_-616499678377597361yahoo_quoted_8172872484"><div style="font-family:"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)"><div><br> On Monday, April 27, 2020, 6:53:28 PM PDT, Perry via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div id="gmail-m_156899261322787454gmail-m_-616499678377597361yiv5086684710"><div><div><p>Listers / Wayne</p><p>I was thinking about the way the cam lobes are lubricated in the original configuration ( stock parts). Please chime in if this is way off.</p><p>It would seem most of the lubrication comes from the steady drip that comes out at the rocker and runs down the pushrod. First the tappets (lifters) get some oil, then passes by the lifter and then on to the cam lobe.</p><p>The oil dripping from the rocker shaft bushings drips onto the top of the head and drops through the pushrod holes to the lifter gallery. On some worn out engines this is a flood instead of a drip. Then you have the oil fog that is in the crank case/oil pan area when the engine is running due to the squirt of oil coming out of the piston rods big ends. The intent was to oil down the piston bores but coats pretty much everything.</p><p>The bucket lifters, which by the way was an old hot rod trick from the early days of Austin Healeys, using lighter weight lifters out of a straight eight Oldsmobile (if I remember correctly) and longer pushrods may or may not be drilled to allow oil to the cam lobe/lifter face. Some guys used pressurized oil to squirt the interface when the bucket was not drilled. The bucket lifters sold years ago that did not have a hole in the lifters had failure problems. A hole was added but the problem with the drilled hole in the bucket it could clog and there was little to no lubrication of the cam lobes, thus major wear. </p><p>I’m not suggesting that the can lobe failure was caused by a plugged hole in the lifter since I did not work on this engine. But it is a possibility.</p><p>Perry</p><p> </p><p>Sent from <a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986" target="_blank">Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p> </p><div id="gmail-m_156899261322787454gmail-m_-616499678377597361yiv5086684710yqt95949"><div style="border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top:1pt solid rgb(225,225,225);padding:3pt 0in 0in"><p style="border:none;padding:0in"><b>From: </b><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" href="mailto:waschu2@gmail.com" target="_blank">Wayne Schultz</a><br clear="none"><b>Sent: </b>Monday, April 27, 2020 4:49 PM<br clear="none"><b>To: </b><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br clear="none"><b>Subject: </b>[Healeys] Oil Additives</p></div><p> </p><div><p>Hello everyone, I recently completed a rebuild of the engine in my Healey 3000. At 48K miles i noticed metal during an oil change. I dropped my oil pan and found even more metal and a silver ring in the block that lined up with a cam lobe. I had been using Mobil 1 for years and always had good oil pressure and a very quiet motor. I pulled the motor and upon teardown I found one bad cam lobe and several lifters that had mild pitting. I thought about how I used my car and came to conclusion I, rather than the oil might be the reason for the cam failure. I drove my car every couple of weeks in nice weather. This is just enough time for the oil to leave the cam and lifters to drain into the pan. This meant the next time I started the engine the cam and lifters might have been metal on metal. My new lifters are short bucket lifters with a drain hole to lubricate the cam lobes. 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