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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I asked if anyone was having problems with the master switch that Moss offers. I am getting quite an education. From what it sounds like, if I just take the switch out of the circuit for initial start up until it starts easily, then even the Moss switch should be OK as long as I make good connections to both ends of the cables to the switch. Does that about boil it down?</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Mike MacLean</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">56 BN2<br></div><div><br></div>
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On Wednesday, March 25, 2020, 3:54:53 PM PDT, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
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<div><div id="yiv7901459182"><div><div dir="ltr"><div class="yiv7901459182gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff;">"<span style="color:rgb(34,34,34);">Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a series of articles a</span></div>few years ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt<br clear="none">engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load<br clear="none">extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting<br clear="none">both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or<br clear="none">otherwise complete the connection. Then after the car starts with no<br clear="none">more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit.<span class="yiv7901459182gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">"</span><div><span class="yiv7901459182gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255);"><br clear="none"></span></div><div><span class="yiv7901459182gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">---------------------------------------------------------------------</span></div><div><span class="yiv7901459182gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">I cannot think of a better commentary than this upon the switch's reliability.</span></div></div><br clear="none"><div class="yiv7901459182gmail_quote"><div class="yiv7901459182yqt4891539518" id="yiv7901459182yqtfd72914"><div class="yiv7901459182gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 5:59 PM <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:sentenac.rw@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:sentenac.rw@gmail.com">sentenac.rw@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"></div><blockquote class="yiv7901459182gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a series of articles a<br clear="none">
few years ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt<br clear="none">
engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load<br clear="none">
extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting<br clear="none">
both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or<br clear="none">
otherwise complete the connection. Then after the car starts with no<br clear="none">
more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
-Roland<br clear="none">
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On Wed, 25 Mar 2020 17:24:47 -0400, you wrote:<br clear="none">
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>For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff<br clear="none">
>switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.<br clear="none">
><br clear="none">
>On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>><br clear="none">
>wrote:<br clear="none">
><br clear="none">
>> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a little<br clear="none">
>> different.<br clear="none">
>> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on my own<br clear="none">
>> car, I discovered that it had failed because the ground cable running from<br clear="none">
>> the switch to the frame was not properly installed.<br clear="none">
>> The full starter current must pass through the switch then through the<br clear="none">
>> cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current passes<br clear="none">
>> through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch and the<br clear="none">
>> switch mounting bracket.<br clear="none">
>> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tension<br clear="none">
>> ruining the switch.<br clear="none">
>> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the spring as<br clear="none">
>> suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been totally<br clear="none">
>> annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current that had<br clear="none">
>> passed through them.<br clear="none">
>> For my own car (and several others since) I made a new spring from copper<br clear="none">
>> coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many years<br clear="none">
>> later.<br clear="none">
>><br clear="none">
>> M<br clear="none">
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-- <br clear="none">
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</blockquote></div></div></div></div><div class="yqt4891539518" id="yqtfd57882">_______________________________________________<br clear="none">Support Team.Net <a shape="rect" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br clear="none">Suggested annual donation $12.75<br clear="none"><br clear="none">Archive: <a shape="rect" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys " target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys </a><a shape="rect" href="http://autox.team.net/archive" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><a shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net" href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br clear="none"><a shape="rect" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none">Unsubscribe/Manage: <a shape="rect" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div></div>
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