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I've noticed the thermal issue as well. I attribute it to the
pump's coil--essentially the pump's body and similar to a
solenoid--getting heat-soaked and its impedance increasing so that
not enough current flows through it to pull the diaphragm back. <br>
<br>
Or, the pump just gets an attitude when it gets hot.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/19/2020 8:06 AM, John Harper
wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Steve
<div><br>
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<div>I also encountered a SU electric pump no working when it
became rather hot. Not only due to its own heat but that
coming to it from the exhaust pipe on a very hot day. I have
made a test rig on the same basis as the 'official' version. I
left this pump running at the full flow rate for many hours
but just as I was about to finish the test it stopped. It was
quite hot running at full rate for so long. but when it cooled
it ran fine.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Eventually I discovered that when hot the throw over
stopped working. This led to the discovery that the
diaphragm was too 'tight'. I then found that later repair
instruction called for more part turns before replacing the
base. In fact two extra clamping holes.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have to assume that the setting was right on the edge and
when the temperature rose the diaphragm became tighter. Since
then the pump has been refitted to my BN1 and works fine.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best regards</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, 19 Feb 2020 at 15:31,
Max Byers <<a href="mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">sbyers@ec.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Hello,
Healeyphiles!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">As
part of the preparation for the cross-country drive to
Lake
Tahoe for Open Roads 2002, I added a generic electric
backup fuel pump (P/N
E8016S, from Autozone) to my BJ8 with a switch under
the dash that allows
switching to either pump, or turning both off. I
chose to plumb the backup
pump into the system in series with the SU because the
installation was much
simpler than doing it in parallel. That arrangement
works perfectly well. Either
pump can pump through the inactive pump. All that was
required was to cut the
hard fuel line from the SU to the carbs, which I had
already done anyway to
install an in-line fuel filter there under the RH rear
seat. To install the
backup pump then only required removing the filter,
running new rubber fuel
hoses to complete the system, and reinstalling the
filter. Quick access to
the pumps and the filter is done by using chrome
screws from above into anchor
nuts on the seat structure, rather than having to
remove a wheel to access the
seat stud nuts. I can remove the seat to have full
access to both pumps, the
filter, the hoses, and the wiring (it also makes
checking and topping up the
differential oil much easier). The backup pump is
attached to the front wall
of the boot behind the rear axle. It is quiet with
only a slight hum, and I
can’t hear it with the engine running.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">My
usual practice is to run on the SU on an outbound leg
of a
trip, then switch to the backup for the return. Three
times since doing the
modification, I have had occasion to switch to the
backup when the SU stumbled (in
the middle of Atlanta traffic) and twice when it
failed to start the car.
These “failures” were only temporary because the SU
performed just fine when
switched back later. I have since rebuilt the SU.
After Conclave in Deadwood,
I joined the group touring the northern states, and
decided to split off from
them and make a 160-mile detour alone over into
Montana just to check that
state off my list. The weather that day was rainy and
chilly. Just as I got
into Montana on an isolated country road, I felt the
car suddenly failing to
respond to the accelerator. As soon as I figured out
what was happening, I switched
to the SU and kept motoring. I was able to find
another identical generic pump
at Autozone in Minot, ND the next morning and had it
installed in about 15
minutes. I used it to get back to North Carolina.
Easy peasy…. I was so glad
not to have to rely on having to install a spare
carried in the boot, on the
side of the road, in the rain or in the dark.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Steve
Byers</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8
Registry</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA
Delegate at Large</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock,
NC USA</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)"> </span></p>
<br>
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