<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">This is a pic of a small puller, readily available from Harbor Freight being used to remove the steering arm from the idler on a BN1. <br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><a href="https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=pitman%20arm%20puller">https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=pitman%20arm%20puller</a></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">You will note that the castellated nut has been removed then installed part way and upside down to help the forcing screw to stay centered.<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><div><img src="cid:ii_k5uh0og20" alt="image.png" width="401" height="559"><br><br></div></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The puller has to be modified slightly to fit over the arm and engage on the pulling ears. <br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">It is a bit of a fiddle but it works perfectly. <br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I see no reason why the same tool could not be used on a later steering box or idler although opening in the puller would have to be slightly larger for the post BN1 cars.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><div dir="auto"><div><br><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Jan 25, 2020, 8:16 PM Bob Spidell, <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
It can be nigh impossible to get a puller on the pitman arm, but if
you can get the bolts out you can turn the box out 90deg and get to
it from the 'side.' I sacrificed a cheap, long slotted screwdriver
and bent the very tip to improvise a puller. I ground the tips of
couple eighth-inch dia. steel rods to make a long, flat blades to
tap the new seal in. It's a bear, but it can be done.<br>
<br>
I agree with Michael on (not) using grease.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 1/25/2020 11:33 AM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I know that I will raise the
ire of some with this but, I would not recommend any type of
grease unless it becomes a liquid at normal operating
temperatures. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">My problem with grease is that
the steering box rocker shaft runs steel on steel at the top
the tube of the steering box. I have rebuilt quite a few of
those boxes and encountered considerable wear of the shaft at
that point when they have been low on oil, as in empty, or
have been filled with grease because the grease does not seem
to get to that area. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">As for changing the seal
without removing the box it is possible. A small pitman arm
puller can be maneuvered into position to remove the arm then
it is just a case of digging the old seal out with an ice pick
or dental hook.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Replace the original single
seal with a pair of SKF /CR9815 seals and you will be good to
go.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">For the front cover, remove it
carefully so as not to damage the bearings then reassemble
with the slightest amount of sealant between each of the shims
and the cover. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 2:18
PM Roger Grace <<a href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>Two questions for the more experienced among us ...<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover
and more significantly from the shaft.<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal
without removing the box ? - that is not going to happen
at the moment.<br>
</div>
<div>Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most
difficult issue would be extracting the old seal ?<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box
with some Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is
there a sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the
filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy
job to me.<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Comments/ideas appreciated.<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
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