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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-CA link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Assuming the setup is the same as my BT7, the shims go between the distance piece and the outer bearing. The heavy washer goes on the outside of the bearing. If you are putting the shims on the outside of the outer bearing, they will not do anything (other than make you see stars). The idea is to increase/decrease the distance between the inner and outer bearings so that they run freely on the outer races with no play and no pre-load. I only have 2-3 shims each side. If you are assembling in the correct order, the number of shims indicates something else is wrong, perhaps a bearing not seater correctly, outer races not seater properly, a PO buggering up the distance piece – any number of issues. If the setup on the BN2 is substantially different to the BT7, I am sure someone on the list will reveal my ignorance, and you can ignore my advice.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Hope it all goes better tomorrow! <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael MacLean<br><b>Sent:</b> December-11-19 4:43 AM<br><b>To:</b> Healeys<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Wednesday Rant<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal> I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars. I did not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free rotation but no end play. I started out with one .020 shim added to one .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim. A total of 5 shims. The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I added an identical stack on top of the first five shims. We are talking .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs. This is where I stopped at about midnight last night. I had enough for tonight. I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of shims. I have to order more to do the passenger side. Nobody told me how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new parts and never having disassembled it in the first place. By the way, the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this job had me a little confuse. The illustration of the two bearings, distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance piece and the inside of the out bearing race. It says 12 shims here! You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed washer. I started saying bad words when I saw that. I still have at least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be enough. I can tell you one thing, if I ever have to turn the rotors again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. There, I feel better now. (Not really!)<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Mie MacLean<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></body></html>