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<p>Same with the car. You loose traction, both sideways and length
wise. On a bike you can correct by counter steering with is very
direct and by leaning over, in a car you cannot as the wheels
react rather indirect on the steering wheel and if you deviate
only slightly from the straight ahead direction the rear will pass
the front. As the brake forces on the front wheels (as on the rear
wheels) will never be 100% equal because of slight differences in
the brakes L/R and on the road surface you will not be able to
hold the straight ahead direction and thus............ A very good
driver may be able to counteract this but the average driver will
not, certainly not on a wet road.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 28-8-2019 om 02:53 schreef Bob
Spidell:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:fdc7e5f8-d4ae-ab9b-1e37-963af55438e9@comcast.net">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
OT, a little, but I've never understood the physics of this. When
I ride my bike, I can lock up the rear wheel and all it does is
skid.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/27/2019 9:29 AM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAB3i7L+sPTscE+CA4S6GZ6U+wYysrnUXY_nYFt5Rg-M5TxNXMQ@mail.gmail.com">
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charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Have to agree with Kees on
this one. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">We have a brake bias control
on AHX12 and I can certainly attest to the fact that when
the conditions change to "wet" removing a lot of rear
braking is absolutely essential to prevent the car from
swapping ends. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">As most road cars don't have
adjustable brake bias I would be very careful in trying to
increase the rear braking.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">When braking into a corner
the last thing you want is the rear end coming around,
particularly in the wet.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at
12:09 PM Kees Oudesluijs <<a
href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl" moz-do-not-send="true">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Whatch out driving in the
rain as the rear brakes will lock the rear <br>
wheels much quicker than with the smaller pistons.Rear
brakes are only <br>
providing a small portion of the total brake force.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
Op 27-8-2019 om 18:04 schreef Chris Dimmock:<br>
> Hi Men<br>
> Has anyone else ever changed their rear wheel cylinders
from 3/4 inch to 7/8 inch?<br>
> I just did. Sick of the rear brakes doing nothing.
Freeloaders!!<br>
> Yes, no problem with seized wheel cylinders, no problem
with the flexible hose - just bugger all wear on the rear
linings.<br>
> I'll let you know how it goes on my BJ8<br>
> Best<br>
> Chris<br>
</blockquote>
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