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<p>Good points; those nuts will work themselves loose and you'll get
'thunks' and oblonged holes (this is one place my go-to
threadlocker didn't help). I got some Nord-Lock washers, but
haven't installed them:</p>
<p><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.amazon.com/nord-lock">https://www.amazon.com/nord-lock</a></p>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/1/2019 7:57 PM, Alan Seigrist
wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">It's good to use a grade 8 bolt (they don't
stretch) and a metal lock nut and steel washer and tighten like
hell. Ideally the bolt has a proper shoulder and isn't threaded
to the head (technically these are hex screws). Make sure all
surfaces are clean and no oil (spray with brake cleaner or
something like that). You can also try a safety nut and wire
it....
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 10:13
AM Harold Manifold <<a href="mailto:manifold@telus.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">manifold@telus.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin:0in 0in 0pt"><span
style="font-size:10pt;font-family:Arial">What is the
secret to tightening the rear shock <span
class="gmail-m_-5883003647097470418377415001-02082019">mounting
</span>bolts <span
class="gmail-m_-5883003647097470418377415001-02082019">on
</span>an Armstrong lever arm shock absorber? After
attacking the problem unsuccessfully with many
different tools I ground one side of an inexpensive
9/16" socket until it would fit to hold the head of
the bolt. Surely BMC had a better method.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin:0in 0in 0pt"><span
style="font-size:10pt;font-family:Arial"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin:0in 0in 0pt"><span
style="font-size:10pt;font-family:Arial">Harold</span></p>
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