<div dir="auto">Michael<div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">I was considering jacking up the car and releasing pressure at the wheels but aside from not being dressed for alongside the road maintenance I figured that by the time I did all this the pressure would release on own.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">I agree that the MC is the likely culprit but at this point will assume nothing</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 9:08 AM Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">Michael, I'm sure that you probably appreciate this but ... if a brake hose is the culprit then either 1 front or both rear brakes will be hot AND the master cylinder "feel" will be approximately similar to normal.<div dir="auto">The fact that the pedal goes hard indicates that the entire system is retaining pressure and the most probable cause is the system charge valve within the master cylinder. </div><div dir="auto">The charge valve type in the 100 master cylinder is prone to problems as a consequence of its design. </div><div dir="auto">Opening a bleed screw when the brakes tighten up is the test that I use to confirm such a master cylinder fault.</div><div dir="auto">Remember, correct diagnosis is 80% of the job!!</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">M</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 8:20 AM Michael Oritt, <<a href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">I finally got to take the car out yesterday evening and while all at first seemed good after five or so miles of driving the brakes began to harden up and became so bad that they almost brought the car to a stop even under throttle. I pulled over and after about 30 minutes the brakes released and I crept back home.</span><br style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><span style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">At this point I am assuming nothing. Other than perhaps by feel I don't know how one can inspect a brake hose for internal collapse but I will go over each component and probably rebuild or replace the MC on general principle. I am also going to replace the heat wrap that went around the manifold which I removed when I first adjusted the brake actuating rod as perhaps it was preventing the MC from overheating, etc.</span><br style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><span style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Egg on my face.... </span><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br></span></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Best--Michael Oritt</span></div></div>
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