<div dir="auto">Real Healeys don't have alternators.š¤£š¤£š¤£š¤£</div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 8:55 AM Per Schoerner, <<a href="mailto:per@schoerner.se">per@schoerner.se</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">It sounds more like your cutout switch is the culprit here.<br>
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Per<br>
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Skickat frƄn min iPhone<br>
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> 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <<a href="mailto:050.rpl@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">050.rpl@gmail.com</a>>:<br>
> <br>
> For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. <br>
> <br>
> So, hereās what Iāve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. <br>
> <br>
> My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at others. If itās either āgood or badā all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. <br>
> <br>
> What does the wisdom of this great resource think?<br>
> <br>
> Price Lindsay<br>
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