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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-AU link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Hello<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>An interesting chore.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Plus at the same time as fitting the rear axle you need to install the Panhard rod which I have found to be a real pain in the bum.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>I became very friendly with both my trolley jack as well as a screw type bottle jack. Yes lift the individual springs up with a jack until you can start the threads, but I wouldn’t do them up until the very end. It may help if the springs were not tightened completely. After both sides are done up by just a few threads it’s time for the bottle jack to be used horizontally and braced up against a wall or some other immovable object and using some blocks of wood. Gently push the whole rear axle from the passenger side (for right hand drive cars) across until the Panhard rod goes into place. You may have to also loosen up the triangular plate that the rod fits through. Be careful that you don’t push the whole rear of the car off the stands so it might be useful to brace the chassis on the other side with more wood against another immovable object. After all that it’s a matter of tightening all the fasteners.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Worked for me and I was doing it myself.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Hoo Roo<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Patrick Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Blue Mountains, Australia<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael MacLean<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, 6 June 2019 12:30 PM<br><b>To:</b> Healeys<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Differential Installation<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal>OK, so I am very familiar with Bugeyes. It is no problem attaching the differential to a quarter elliptical leaf spring. Today I finished the installation of the leaf springs on my BN2 and with the help of my son we muscled the differential (with the pumpkin) kind of in place above the two frame rails. Excuse my ignorance, but what is the procedure to bring the attachment point on the axle in contact with the center of the leaf spring? As it sits right now I am having a tough time figuring this out. Do I jack up the center of the leaf spring with a jack until the u-bolt can get the nuts started? When I got this basket case, the rear end was held in with a come-a-long and the leaf springs were gone, by just cutting them off with a torch. No experience here guys. Just a suggestion or two would be great.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Mike MacLean<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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