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<p>I used urethane bushes for the Panhard rod ... didn't want to do
that job twice.<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/5/2019 8:19 PM, Patrick &
Caroline Quinn wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt">Hello<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt">An
interesting chore.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt">Plus at the
same time as fitting the rear axle you need to install the
Panhard rod which I have found to be a real pain in the bum.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt">I became
very friendly with both my trolley jack as well as a screw
type bottle jack. Yes lift the individual springs up with a
jack until you can start the threads, but I wouldn’t do them
up until the very end. It may help if the springs were not
tightened completely. After both sides are done up by just a
few threads it’s time for the bottle jack to be used
horizontally and braced up against a wall or some other
immovable object and using some blocks of wood. Gently push
the whole rear axle from the passenger side (for right hand
drive cars) across until the Panhard rod goes into place.
You may have to also loosen up the triangular plate that the
rod fits through. Be careful that you don’t push the whole
rear of the car off the stands so it might be useful to
brace the chassis on the other side with more wood against
another immovable object. After all that it’s a matter of
tightening all the fasteners.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt">Worked for
me and I was doing it myself.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt">Hoo Roo<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt">Patrick
Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt">Blue
Mountains, Australia<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US"> Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Michael MacLean<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, 6 June 2019 12:30 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Differential Installation<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">OK, so I am very familiar with
Bugeyes. It is no problem attaching the differential to a
quarter elliptical leaf spring. Today I finished the
installation of the leaf springs on my BN2 and with the
help of my son we muscled the differential (with the
pumpkin) kind of in place above the two frame rails.
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the procedure to bring
the attachment point on the axle in contact with the
center of the leaf spring? As it sits right now I am
having a tough time figuring this out. Do I jack up the
center of the leaf spring with a jack until the u-bolt can
get the nuts started? When I got this basket case, the
rear end was held in with a come-a-long and the leaf
springs were gone, by just cutting them off with a torch.
No experience here guys. Just a suggestion or two would
be great.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Mike MacLean<o:p></o:p></p>
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