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    <p><i>Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator
        better than that at normal speeds.</i></p>
    <p>Should of course read : <br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><b>Both a generator and an alternator
        would deliver sufficiently and an alternator better than that at
        normal speeds.</b></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Sorry for the confusion.</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Kees Oudesluijs<b><br>
      </b></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><b><br>
      </b></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><b><br>
      </b></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><i><br>
      </i></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><i></i>Op 26-5-2019 om 22:44 schreef
      Kees Oudesluijs:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:e9f2ebb7-fca5-b192-eb0e-89507ebee1d8@chello.nl">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p>I do not think the generator will deliver more than about
        25-30A at high revs. on a good day. A period alternator will
        give you 32-36A at moderate revs. <br>
      </p>
      <p>The fan will normally only be switched on in dense traffic at
        low speed, when a generator is not producing many amps. An
        alternator would do slightly better.</p>
      <p>Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator
        better than that at normal speeds unless there are other
        accessories drawing a lot of power: e.g. head lights,
        spotlights, heater fan, windscreen wipers, modern high power
        radio, AC etc.</p>
      <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
      <p><br>
      </p>
      <p><br>
      </p>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 26-5-2019 om 22:11 schreef Michael
        Oritt:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPTa0B6D4y4+m-TB0L5zUi7c7opPYUcu=FjfXXQ2k1p6R-NwGw@mail.gmail.com">
        <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        <div dir="ltr">
          <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Make that 7
            amps--not 78....</div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael
            Oritt</div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
          </div>
        </div>
        <br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">
          <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10
            PM Michael Oritt <<a
              href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"
              moz-do-not-send="true">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>>
            wrote:<br>
          </div>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
            0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
            rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
            <div dir="ltr">
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Patrick--</div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
              </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">If,
                as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge
                when the fan is running I would be concerned for the
                state of your charging circuit.  I assume you have a
                generator if you have an ammeter and  </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">I
                believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps
                which should be more than sufficient to keep up with the
                draw of an auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans
                as drawing no more than 78 amps (<a
                  href="https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm"
                  target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm</a>).  </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
              </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
                Oritt</div>
            </div>
            <br>
            <div class="gmail_quote">
              <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019 at
                4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs <<a
                  href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl" target="_blank"
                  moz-do-not-send="true">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>>
                wrote:<br>
              </div>
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                0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
                rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                <div>
                  <p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of
                    amps which will result in a negative charge hence
                    the ign. light is coming on, probably only when
                    idling. Before you most likely had the fan wired
                    directly from the main circuit in series with the
                    Amp. meter and not through the ignition circuit so
                    the light might not show. You could operating the
                    fan using a relay switched on by the under dash
                    switch but getting the main current from the
                    battery. It will not solve the negative charge but
                    it may avoid the light coming on.</p>
                  <p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing
                    more Amps than necessary. However the fan is only on
                    for a very short while unless in prolonged very
                    heavy traffic and on long and slow steep inclines<br>
                  </p>
                  <p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with
                    the thermo-switch (wired through the ignition
                    circuit and use the manual switch as an override
                    switch so when you switch of the ignition the fan
                    will not work. These should switch a relay with the
                    main current coming directly from the main circuit
                    with the Ampmeter<br>
                  </p>
                  <p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and
                    cuts out at about 5-10°C over the opening
                    temperature of the thermostat.</p>
                  <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
                  <p><br>
                  </p>
                  <p><br>
                  </p>
                  <div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469moz-cite-prefix">Op
                    25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline
                    Quinn:<br>
                  </div>
                  <blockquote type="cite">
                    <div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469WordSection1">
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Hello</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Seeking advice from
                          those who understand automotive electrics.</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>My real Healey has an
                          electric fan in front of the radiator that was
                          controlled by a thermo switch. Worked
                          reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of power
                          but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge
                          needle would always hover in the negative. </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Personally I don’t like
                          thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired
                          direct and operated by a discreet switch under
                          the dash. Power is taken directly from the
                          outgoing side of the ignition switch so that
                          the fan only comes on when the ignition is on
                          along with the specific switch.</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Works well, but now
                          when the fan goes on the ignition light is
                          illuminated and will not go out.</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Does that mean that the
                          ignition circuit doesn’t like what I have
                          done? I am thinking of taking the power direct
                          from the incoming side of the ignition switch
                          so that the fan is powered direct from the
                          battery. Would that work?</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Any electrical whizzes
                          out there?</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains,
                          Australia </span></p>
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