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I would go with your first theory. During production the starters were assembled to the engines before they were painted so the mounting surfaces were probably bare metal. In restoration we tend to paint everything as it is rebuilt, so there was probably a
lot more paint between the mounting surfaces than they originally came with.</div>
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Bill Lawrence</div>
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BN1 #554</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, May 22, 2019 2:39 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Michael Oritt<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Balky Starter on BN2</font>
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<p>Could be, but there's not much wiggle room with the bolts.</p>
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<div class="x_moz-cite-prefix">On 5/21/2019 6:38 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:<br>
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<div class="x_gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Or perhaps there was some slight misalignment causing the pinion to jam ever-so-slightly against the ring gear which was corrected when you reinstalled the starter.</div>
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<div class="x_gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="x_gmail_attr">On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 7:20 PM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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0.8ex; border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
A while back, I posted a question to the List about the lame starter in <br>
my BN2 (thanks for all the suggestions guys). I tried various types of <br>
jumping the starting system and checking connections and still the <br>
starter wouldn't turn the engine over even one full turn. I finally <br>
pulled the starter and took it to a local shop; they opened it up and <br>
inspected it and said the starter was in great shape, except from some <br>
discoloration on the insulation of the field coils, which had obviously <br>
gotten hot due to all the balked starting attempts. They reassembled <br>
the starter and gave it back (no charge ;). So, I pulled the plugs to <br>
check mixture and adjust the valves, put the plugs back in and gave it a <br>
crank just for grins, not expecting any change. Lo and behold, it <br>
cranked just fine--for a 100--and fired on the third or fourth crank <br>
(had been sitting for a while). Nothing had been significantly changed, <br>
though when I last installed the starter I had used grade 8 flat washers <br>
under grade 8 split washers, and when I installed the starter this time <br>
I decided the flat washers were unnecessary--the holes are 'right sized' <br>
for the bolts--and left them out. That is the only thing I changed <br>
(except for adjusting the valve lash). I can only surmise there was <br>
enough resistance from the flat washers and the fairly thick coats of <br>
paint on both the starter and the engine plate to impede current flow to <br>
ground. The split washers apparently dug through the layers of paint <br>
and established a good ground.<br>
<br>
Thought I'd pass this along.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
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