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Had my 100 die suddenly one night.....source of the shut down was a short in the dip switch !!! </div>
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Omitting the sordid details of what happened that night, it started right up when I switched to the high beam.</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request@autox.team.net <healeys-request@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, March 20, 2019 11:00 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 92</font>
<div> </div>
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Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Re: Car dies suddenly (simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com)<br>
2. Re: Car dies suddenly (Elton Schulz)<br>
3. Re: Car dies suddenly (Bluehealey)<br>
4. Re: Car dies suddenly (skip saunders)<br>
5. Re: Gearbox Noise (Charles Schott)<br>
6. Re: Car dies suddenly (Michael Salter)<br>
7. Re: Car dies suddenly (Michael Oritt)<br>
8. Re: Car dies suddenly (i erbs)<br>
9. Re: Car dies suddenly (Engl)<br>
10. Re: Car dies suddenly (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)<br>
11. sudden stop (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)<br>
12. Re: Gearbox Noise (Michael Salter)<br>
13. Re: Car dies suddenly (Jonathan Einhorn)<br>
14. Re: Car dies suddenly (Tom Felts)<br>
15. Re: Gearbox Noise (Chris Dimmock)<br>
16. Re: Car dies suddenly (simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com)<br>
17. Re: Gearbox Noise (Bruce Steele)<br>
18. Re: Car dies suddenly (Bob Spidell)<br>
19. Re: Gearbox Noise (Mark J Bradakis)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 20:49:13 -0000<br>
From: <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com><br>
To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "'Austin Healey'"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID: <001101d4de95$37033f00$a509bd00$@alexarevel.plus.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..<br>
<br>
Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endless tears.<br>
<br>
Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
<br>
Worth a look.<br>
<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt<br>
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil terminal.
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
<br>
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Message: 2<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 17:07:10 -0400<br>
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID: <5C9159FE.7000505@frontiernet.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Michael,<br>
Could it be the battery cutoff switch in the trunk or the black/white <br>
wire from that switch to the distributor?<br>
Elton<br>
On 3/19/2019 1:45 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:<br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles <br>
> the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or <br>
> missing leading up to it---the car simply died. I coasted to the side <br>
> of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I <br>
> pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, <br>
> revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive <br>
> on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The <br>
> car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it <br>
> died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped <br>
> the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed <br>
> fine---all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from <br>
> the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight <br>
> and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
><br>
><br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, <br>
> turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car <br>
> started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for <br>
> my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without any further <br>
> event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to <br>
> verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed <br>
> SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver's seat <br>
> which allows me to switch between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump <br>
> off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on <br>
> either pump and when I selected the "off" position it slowly lost <br>
> power as I expected it to---but in no way like it had suddenly twice <br>
> died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a <br>
> fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system <br>
> or to the primary wires that run to it.<br>
><br>
><br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The <br>
> car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which <br>
> has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I <br>
> removed the distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at <br>
> least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as <br>
> was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory <br>
> specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power <br>
> source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC <br>
> to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil <br>
> terminal.<br>
><br>
><br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in <br>
> place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition <br>
> switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil <br>
> pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I point this out <br>
> because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light <br>
> immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch <br>
> itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove <br>
> the ignition key switch the wires to and from it seem tight and intact.<br>
><br>
><br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without <br>
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don't know where <br>
> to start any further tests, etc. I also don't want to simply wait for <br>
> the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 <br>
> miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last <br>
> week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All <br>
> suggestions/questions welcome....<br>
><br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
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><br>
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<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 21:36:30 +0000<br>
From: Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID: <2A42BBCF-9C06-45A2-B558-8F9064EE4034@gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a similar problem that was resolved by changing to a red rotor with no rivet.<br>
Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon - which can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.<br>
Keep us all in the loop.<br>
Bluehealey.com<br>
<br>
Alan - from my iPad<br>
<br>
> On 19 Mar 2019, at 17:45, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil terminal.
<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light.
I point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to
and from it seem tight and intact.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
> <br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> <br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
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> <br>
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> <br>
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<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 17:41:51 -0400<br>
From: "skip saunders" <tfsbj7@gmail.com><br>
To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "'Austin Healey'"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID: <000001d4de9c$907d4420$b177cc60$@gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Many years ago, I had the exact same experience. It turned out to be a faulty ignition key switch. When jouncing around the weight of the key (and associated other keys) would seem to move the switch ever so slightly. I did an autopsy on the switch?.turned
out to be extremely robust plastic/bakelite but very flimsy metal innards. I replaced the switch with a GM switch (this was many many years ago?.before concourse was even a thought in my head) and drove the car for another 50-60k miles?.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best Wishes <br>
<br>
-skip-<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt<br>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 1:46 PM<br>
To: Austin Healey<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil terminal.
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 19:25:14 -0400 (EDT)<br>
From: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
To: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net><br>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<189186061.2815522.1553037914250.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I just spent the whole afternoon getting it out and will open up it tomorrow. <br>
<br>
Regards, <br>
<br>
Charlie <br>
<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
<br>
From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net> <br>
To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net> <br>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 10:56:10 AM <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise <br>
<br>
How to get it back in! Been there. Done that. <br>
(The Other) Len <br>
Fairfield, CA, USA <br>
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message ----- <br>
From: Charles Schott <br>
To: Tom <br>
Cc: Healey Mail List <br>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 3:36 PM <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote><br>
<br>
I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7 w/overdrive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot hear it at all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working intermittently and now it's not working
<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote><br>
at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm planning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from above.
<br>
</blockquote><br>
<br>
<br>
Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What should I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.
<br>
<br>
Regards, <br>
<br>
Charlie Schott <br>
<br>
<blockquote><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________ <br>
Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a> Suggested annual donation $12.75
<br>
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Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 14:34:19 +1300<br>
From: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com><br>
To: simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com<br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAB3i7LKjePQjA-pNp4SOsMMTAVpJ_iMQmNzzkEOKEXupJSJDuQ@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Hi Michael,<br>
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it<br>
might well be worth checking.<br>
The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil.<br>
Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly<br>
dying.<br>
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a<br>
significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver<br>
which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually<br>
okay ... it wasn't.<br>
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by<br>
installing a replacement.<br>
I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was<br>
confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then<br>
finding that the engine started immediately.<br>
As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine<br>
to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil<br>
can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.<br>
<br>
M<br>
<br>
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
> I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..<br>
><br>
> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do<br>
> 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused<br>
> endless tears.<br>
><br>
> Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
><br>
> Worth a look.<br>
><br>
> Simon<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael<br>
> Oritt<br>
> *Sent:* 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the<br>
> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing<br>
> leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and<br>
> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start<br>
> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled<br>
> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen<br>
> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran<br>
> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as<br>
> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition<br>
> system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as<br>
> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil<br>
> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed<br>
> fine.<br>
><br>
><br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned<br>
> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right<br>
> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage,<br>
> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the<br>
> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was<br>
> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a<br>
> switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch<br>
> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the<br>
> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected<br>
> the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way<br>
> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I<br>
> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to<br>
> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.<br>
><br>
><br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car<br>
> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in<br>
> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the<br>
> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The<br>
> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon<br>
> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast<br>
> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine<br>
> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it<br>
> and at the positive coil terminal.<br>
><br>
><br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place<br>
> of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch<br>
> through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge<br>
> sender line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when<br>
> the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I<br>
> conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem.<br>
> And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from<br>
> it seem tight and intact.<br>
><br>
><br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without<br>
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to<br>
> start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the<br>
> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no<br>
> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not<br>
> performed any work related to the ignition system. All<br>
> suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
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><br>
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<br>
Message: 7<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 22:07:21 -0400<br>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAPTa0B56QVtJUgiAtx1ZgQ3bVGohaY9tYjpm7QdBbQJmwsoy6Q@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Hi Michael--<br>
<br>
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event<br>
that happened last week.<br>
<br>
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced<br>
the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts,<br>
so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually<br>
find the definite issue such as a defective component or a failing<br>
connection, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing<br>
disty's etc. and then waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'll<br>
start by going through the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch<br>
and see if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start<br>
on the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) ,<br>
has no condenser.<br>
<br>
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael<br>
<br>
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com><br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
> Hi Michael,<br>
> 100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it<br>
> might well be worth checking.<br>
> The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil.<br>
> Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly<br>
> dying.<br>
> Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a<br>
> significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver<br>
> which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually<br>
> okay ... it wasn't.<br>
> I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by<br>
> installing a replacement.<br>
> I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was<br>
> confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then<br>
> finding that the engine started immediately.<br>
> As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine<br>
> to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
> I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil<br>
> can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.<br>
><br>
> M<br>
><br>
> I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.<br>
><br>
><br>
> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:<br>
><br>
>> I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..<br>
>><br>
>> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot?<br>
>> Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused<br>
>> endless tears.<br>
>><br>
>> Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
>><br>
>> Worth a look.<br>
>><br>
>> Simon<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael<br>
>> Oritt<br>
>> *Sent:* 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
>> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the<br>
>> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing<br>
>> leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and<br>
>> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start<br>
>> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled<br>
>> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen<br>
>> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran<br>
>> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as<br>
>> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition<br>
>> system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as<br>
>> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil<br>
>> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed<br>
>> fine.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned<br>
>> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right<br>
>> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage,<br>
>> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the<br>
>> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was<br>
>> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a<br>
>> switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch<br>
>> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the<br>
>> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected<br>
>> the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way<br>
>> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I<br>
>> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to<br>
>> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car<br>
>> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in<br>
>> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the<br>
>> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The<br>
>> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon<br>
>> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast<br>
>> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine<br>
>> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it<br>
>> and at the positive coil terminal.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in<br>
>> place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition<br>
>> switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure<br>
>> gauge sender line and then to the light. I point this out because both<br>
>> times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on,<br>
>> from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of<br>
>> the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires<br>
>> to and from it seem tight and intact.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without<br>
>> finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to<br>
>> start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the<br>
>> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no<br>
>> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not<br>
>> performed any work related to the ignition system. All<br>
>> suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>><br>
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>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
>><br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>><br>
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>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com">
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<br>
Message: 8<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 19:29:21 -0700<br>
From: i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CABXhz88U7SBUYAKq8TfFrP8sOR=kMEXeVKspjeNJnbvaoKfoRg@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I'm with everyone else. bypass the battery cut off switch and see if that<br>
fixes the problem.<br>
Ira Erbs<br>
Portland,OR<br>
_______ _______<br>
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
(_________________________)<br>
BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
<br>
<br>
1967 MGB [image: MG]<br>
<br>
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
<br>
<br>
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 1:48 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the<br>
> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing<br>
> leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and<br>
> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start<br>
> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled<br>
> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen<br>
> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran<br>
> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as<br>
> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition<br>
> system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as<br>
> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil<br>
> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed<br>
> fine.<br>
><br>
><br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned<br>
> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right<br>
> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage,<br>
> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the<br>
> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was<br>
> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a<br>
> switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch<br>
> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the<br>
> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected<br>
> the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way<br>
> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I<br>
> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to<br>
> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.<br>
><br>
><br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car<br>
> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in<br>
> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the<br>
> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The<br>
> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon<br>
> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast<br>
> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine<br>
> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it<br>
> and at the positive coil terminal.<br>
><br>
><br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place<br>
> of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch<br>
> through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge<br>
> sender line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when<br>
> the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I<br>
> conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem.<br>
> And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from<br>
> it seem tight and intact.<br>
><br>
><br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without<br>
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to<br>
> start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the<br>
> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no<br>
> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not<br>
> performed any work related to the ignition system. All<br>
> suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
><br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
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<br>
Message: 9<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 20:49:46 -0600<br>
From: Engl <engl@accesscomm.ca><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, Austin Healey<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID: <21AFD356-BFD4-4194-A638-0F07EB2C526C@accesscomm.ca><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Michael<br>
<br>
You?ve had some great suggestions from a couple of others, but if those issues don?t seem to fix the problem, try a different coil. I had the exact same issues on my E a couple of years ago - turned out to be a wonky 10 year old Lucas Sportcoil.
<br>
<br>
Bob England<br>
<br>
> On Mar 19, 2019, at 11:45 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil terminal.
<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light.
I point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to
and from it seem tight and intact.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
> <br>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br>
Message: 10<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 02:57:58 +0000<br>
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com><br>
To: Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com>, Michael Oritt<br>
<michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<DM6PR07MB45387DB665592F6674BD9EE6A5410@DM6PR07MB4538.namprd07.prod.outlook.com><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"<br>
<br>
Sounds like a bad coil. The problem they have is temperature related with one or the other of the windings having a broken wire which is in contact at lower temperatures, but loses continuity when the coil warms up. I drove my old Range Rover classic 300 miles
with this problem once with the coil cutting out every 20 miles or so. It is seared in my mind.<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
BN1 #554<br>
________________________________<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com><br>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 9:36 PM<br>
To: Michael Oritt<br>
Cc: Austin Healey<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a similar problem that was resolved by changing to a red rotor with no rivet.<br>
Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon - which can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.<br>
Keep us all in the loop.<br>
Bluehealey.com<<a href="http://Bluehealey.com">http://Bluehealey.com</a>><br>
<br>
Alan - from my iPad<br>
<br>
On 19 Mar 2019, at 17:45, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com<mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com>> wrote:<br>
<br>
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil terminal.<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
Support Team.Net<<a href="http://Team.Net">http://Team.Net</a>> <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">
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Message: 11<br>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2019 20:02:06 -0700<br>
From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <healeymanjim@hansencc.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] sudden stop<br>
Message-ID: <20190320030206.31219.qmail@server278.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
my bj8 was doing the same thing many years back. had a relatively new coil on it, but suspected it might be the culprit.
<br>
put an old beat up lucas coil on and it is stopped the problem. coil is still on car and says it was made in 65.<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 12<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 18:50:09 +1300<br>
From: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com><br>
To: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAB3i7LJ=vLGBhSjfVgDQXfRYUh9g2F1mSoMhGikJ+634i-ktbw@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Obviously you aren't on "flat rate" ????<br>
<br>
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 6:35 PM Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
> I just spent the whole afternoon getting it out and will open up it<br>
> tomorrow.<br>
><br>
> Regards,<br>
><br>
> Charlie<br>
><br>
> ------------------------------<br>
> *From: *"Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net><br>
> *To: *"AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, March 19, 2019 10:56:10 AM<br>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
><br>
> ?<br>
><br>
> How to get it back in! Been there. Done that.<br>
><br>
> (The Other) Len<br>
> Fairfield, CA, USA<br>
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031<br>
><br>
> ----- Original Message -----<br>
> *From:* Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
> *To:* Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com><br>
> *Cc:* Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Sent:* Monday, March 18, 2019 3:36 PM<br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
>> I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7<br>
>> w/overdrive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot<br>
>> hear it at all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working<br>
>> intermittently and now it's not working<br>
><br>
> at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm<br>
>> planning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from above.<br>
><br>
><br>
> Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What<br>
> should I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.<br>
><br>
> Regards,<br>
><br>
> Charlie Schott<br>
><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
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<br>
Message: 13<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400<br>
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID: <F5D5F3E8-7DD2-4ED8-A974-92A0AA1F1890@gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and the other was my Petronix<br>
Jon<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
> On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Hi Michael--<br>
> <br>
> Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event that happened last week.
<br>
> <br>
> As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts, so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually find the definite issue such as
a defective component or a failing connection, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing disty's etc. and then waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'll start by going through the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch and see
if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has no condenser.<br>
> <br>
> Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael<br>
> <br>
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
>> Hi Michael,<br>
>> 100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it might well be worth checking.<br>
>> The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil. Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly dying.
<br>
>> Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually okay ... it wasn't.<br>
>> I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by installing a replacement.<br>
>> I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then finding that the engine started immediately.<br>
>> As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
>> I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.<br>
>> <br>
>> M<br>
>> <br>
>> I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.<br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>>> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:<br>
>>> I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endless tears.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Worth a look.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Simon<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt<br>
>>> Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
>>> To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key
was still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran
fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there
without any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch
between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15
or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil terminal.
<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light.
I point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to
and from it seem tight and intact.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> <br>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
>>> <br>
>>> _______________________________________________<br>
>>> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
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<br>
Message: 14<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 07:08:39 -0400 (EDT)<br>
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net><br>
To: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<1307766788.17004904.1553080119370.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I always thought that if a Pertronix goes it goes completely, not stop and go. I could be wrong, but this is what I have been told many times.tom<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400 (EDT)<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and the other was my PetronixJon<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
Hi Michael--<br>
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event that happened last week.
<br>
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts, so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually find the definite issue such as a
defective component or a failing connection, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing disty's etc. and then waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'll start by going through the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch and see
if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has no condenser.<br>
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael<br>
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
Hi Michael,<br>
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it might well be worth checking.The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil. Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly dying.
<br>
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually okay ... it wasn't.<br>
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by installing a replacement.I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then finding that the engine
started immediately.As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.<br>
M<br>
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:<br>
I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endless tears.Or is it a black/white wire?Worth
a look.Simon From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt<br>
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after
about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car
accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead
from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil terminal.
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?. Best--Michael Oritt, BN1_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 15<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 23:04:24 +1100<br>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com><br>
To: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
Message-ID: <1476F24E-E3FE-4453-8D7A-7C253F113C75@gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
My money is on a broken/ missing tooth on the 1st/ reverse idler. On the reverse side.<br>
And some collateral damage on 1st on the cluster/ 1st slider gear. <br>
Love to hear the outcome of the autopsy. <br>
Good luck, and carefully check/ strain the contents of the oil before removal. <br>
Best<br>
Chris<br>
<br>
> On 19 Mar 2019, at 9:36 am, Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
>> <br>
>> I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7 w/overdrive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot hear it at all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working intermittently and now it's not working
<br>
>> at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm planning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from above.<br>
> <br>
> Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What should I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.<br>
> <br>
> Regards,<br>
> <br>
> Charlie Schott<br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
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<br>
Message: 16<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 13:25:40 -0000<br>
From: <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com><br>
To: "'Tom Felts'" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, "'Jonathan Einhorn'"<br>
<einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br>
Cc: 'Austin Healey' <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID: <000501d4df20$6bfb3600$43f1a200$@alexarevel.plus.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Yes, that?s what I?d always thought. But, I suppose, thinking something doesn?t always make it so.<br>
<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom Felts<br>
Sent: 20 March 2019 11:09<br>
To: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I always thought that if a Pertronix goes it goes completely, not stop and go. I could be wrong, but this is what I have been told many times.<br>
<br>
tom<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice@gmail.com <<a href="mailto:einhornlawoffice@gmail.com">mailto:einhornlawoffice@gmail.com</a>> ><br>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com <<a href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com">mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> ><br>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>> ><br>
Sent: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:08:09 -0400 (EDT)<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Two things that have caused this to happen to me: one was a bad rotor and the other was my Petronix<br>
<br>
Jon<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
<br>
On Mar 19, 2019, at 10:07 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com <<a href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com">mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> > wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Hi Michael--<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Firstly my condolences to you and your countrymen for the terrible event that happened last week.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
As to the B/W wire's being the culprit I tore it out long ago and replaced the stock cutoff switch with a superior marine unit with plated contacts, so scratch that as a cause. As I posted elsewhere I am hoping to actually find the definite issue such as a
defective component or a failing connection, etc. rather than launching into replacing coils, changing disty's etc. and then waiting for something or nothing to happen. I'll start by going through the ignition circuit beginning with the key switch and see
if I can find the offending bit, etc. If no luck then I'll start on the Mallory Unilite which, being an electronic system (Hall Effect?) , has no condenser.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks for the input and we'll stay in touch--Michael<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:34 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com <<a href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com">mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com</a>> > wrote:<br>
<br>
Hi Michael,<br>
<br>
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it might well be worth checking.<br>
<br>
The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil. Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly dying.
<br>
<br>
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually okay ... it wasn't.<br>
<br>
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by installing a replacement.<br>
<br>
I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then finding that the engine started immediately.<br>
<br>
As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br>
<br>
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
M<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com <<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com">mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</a>> > wrote:<br>
<br>
I?m presuming that the car?s a 100? You make reference to 4 plugs?..<br>
<br>
Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endless tears.<br>
<br>
Or is it a black/white wire?<br>
<br>
Worth a look.<br>
<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> > On Behalf Of Michael Oritt<br>
Sent: 19 March 2019 17:46<br>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>> ><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading up to it?the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was
still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine
for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine?all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the coil to the distributor.
The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there without
any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver?s seat which allows me to switch between
pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the ?off? position it slowly lost power as I expected it to?but in no way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes
earlier. This indicated I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears
to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling
I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coil terminal.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I
point this out because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and
from it seem tight and intact.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding something that appears to be defective but I don?t know where to start any further tests, etc. I also don?t want to simply wait for the issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend
I drove about 150 miles with no issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome?.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 17<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 06:52:09 -0700<br>
From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com><br>
To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey@gmail.com>, "'Charles Schott'"<br>
<schottc@knology.net><br>
Cc: 'Healey Mail List' <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
Message-ID: <04f901d4df24$1e4a9cd0$5adfd670$@roadrunner.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I agree with Chris. That was my experience. Now I have a cluster gear paper weight.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bruce Steele<br>
<br>
Brea, CA<br>
<br>
1960 BN7<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock<br>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 5:04 AM<br>
To: Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net><br>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
My money is on a broken/ missing tooth on the 1st/ reverse idler. On the reverse side.<br>
<br>
And some collateral damage on 1st on the cluster/ 1st slider gear. <br>
<br>
Love to hear the outcome of the autopsy. <br>
<br>
Good luck, and carefully check/ strain the contents of the oil before removal. <br>
<br>
Best<br>
<br>
Chris<br>
<br>
<br>
On 19 Mar 2019, at 9:36 am, Charles Schott <schottc@knology.net <<a href="mailto:schottc@knology.net">mailto:schottc@knology.net</a>> > wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a very loud banging noise in my gearbox in reverse (1960 BT7 w/overdrive) It's much less noticeable in first and second and I cannot hear it at all in third and fourth. Also, the O/D started working intermittently and now it's not working
<br>
<br>
at all. The O/D cut out switch on the gearbox is working properly. I'm planning on pulling the gearbox out and I think I can get it out from above.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing the noise? What should I be looking for when I get it out? Thanks.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Charlie Schott<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 18<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 07:32:46 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<br>
Message-ID: <dcebb665-6235-f96d-24f1-1f1ba8dd77a4@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
If the starter cranks well and consistently it's not likely the battery <br>
cut-off switch.? I believe Michael indicated he removed the 'anti-theft' <br>
white/black wire.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
On 3/19/2019 7:29 PM, i erbs wrote:<br>
> I'm with everyone else. bypass the battery cut off switch and see if <br>
> that fixes the problem.<br>
> Ira Erbs<br>
> Portland,OR<br>
> _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______<br>
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
> (_________________________)<br>
> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
><br>
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<br>
Message: 19<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2019 10:29:11 -0600<br>
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox Noise<br>
Message-ID: <5934b943-c2bd-f1ed-1253-17642552b0d9@bradakis.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed<br>
<br>
On 3/19/19 5:25 PM, Charles Schott wrote:<br>
> I just spent the whole afternoon getting it out and will open up it <br>
> tomorrow.<br>
><br>
Back when I was working at my friend's shop I could drive a TR6 into the <br>
shop (assuming it was driveable!) and 2 hours later the gearbox would be <br>
on the bench ready to start a rebuild.? Proper tools and fancy lifts are <br>
very nice.<br>
<br>
On a side note, won't get to the new server this week, but am shooting <br>
for next week.? Thanks to all those who contributed.<br>
<br>
mjb.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Subject: Digest Footer<br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 92<br>
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