<div dir="ltr">The most recent AHCUSA club magazine had an article written by Roger Moment advocating mechanical brake switches. My original pressure switch required a lot of pressure to light the brakes, so I installed a mechanical 10 years ago. When the mechanic switch failed last year, I realized the pressure switch wasn't working at all. <div><br></div><div>Seems like the mechanical switch is a really wise idea.</div><div><br></div><div>- Tom</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Mar 18, 2019 at 1:39 AM Al Fuller <<a href="mailto:alfuller194@gmail.com">alfuller194@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Bob - before you give up on the mechanical switch you may want to check it with an ohm meter... <br>
<br>
I have several mechanical switches here - two are normally open and one is normally closed [lever-arm switch]. If it is normally closed it would give you the symptoms you describe.<br>
<br>
Al Fuller<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of R. Lindsay<br>
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2019 4:30 PM<br>
To: Bob Haskell <<a href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net" target="_blank">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>><br>
Cc: Healey List <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Lights<br>
<br>
I think I have. Reconnected the pressure switch and all is good. The added mechanical switch must have failed. <br>
<br>
Thanks for everyone’s input!<br>
<br>
Price Lindsay<br>
<br>
Cell: 630-841-6300<br>
Email: <a href="mailto:050.rpl@gmail.com" target="_blank">050.rpl@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
> On Mar 16, 2019, at 9:51 PM, Bob Haskell <<a href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net" target="_blank">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Price,<br>
> <br>
> So you're saying that both switches are hooked up now and only the mechanical switch was before?<br>
> <br>
> How is the mechanical switch tied into the harness? At the original hydraulic switch? So there are there is a pair of wires on each post? If so, make sure that each pair has a wire from the harness and a wire from the mechanical switch. If the two harness wires are tied together, then you've bypassed the switches and the brake lights will be on.<br>
> <br>
> I would also disconnect each switch from the harness and check continuity across the switch. The hydraulic switch normally fails open, but if either is closed all the time, then the lights will be on.<br>
> <br>
> Cheers,<br>
> <br>
> Bob Haskell<br>
> Austin Healey 3000 MkI registrar<br>
> <a href="http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php</a><br>
> <br>
>> On 3/16/19 2:42 PM, R. Lindsay wrote:<br>
>> I have a new wiring harness installed on my BJ8. When I turn on the ignition, the brake lights light and stay lit until I turn the ignition off. I was convinced to add a mechanical switch, which I did, and it worked fine (the brake lights turn on only when the pedal is pushed) until the new harness was installed.<br>
>> I did not install the harness and wonder where to start to find the issue. If the in-line switch (which is original to the car) is hooked up as well as the mechanical switch, could this cause the issue I’m describing? Could there be a crossed wire or two somewhere? I checked the way the rear lights were installed and red to red and purple green to purple green were connected to each other. The black wires are both to ground.<br>
>> Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!<br>
>> Price Lindsay<br>
>> 67 BJ8<br>
>> Sent from my iPad<br>
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</blockquote></div>