<font color='black' size='2' face='arial'>It appears be primarily designed to withstand very high temperatures. It might be a good choice for insulating the carb float bowls from the exhaust manifold as an example.<br>
<div>It is also very thin (not very good at reducing conducted heat) & has a reflective surface (good for reflecting radiant heat) so it might be a good choice for insulating the underside of the trans tunnel. No R values available on their web site. Try asking them for the R value. stated in btu/inch of thickness.</div>
<div>Gary H.</div>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
To: Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net><br>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Thu, Jan 24, 2019 7:31 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior<br>
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<div>Anyone using Koolmat?</div>
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<div><a class="yiv1268855650enhancr_card_9100565877" href="https://www.koolmat.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect">Automotive Heat Shield Products | Industrial Heat Reduction Insulation</a></div>
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<div>Mike MacLean<br clear="none"></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650ydp67de3effcard-description" style="font-size:12px;line-height:16px;margin:0;color:#979ba7;">Koolmat | Automotive Heat Shield Products | Heat Insulation for Industry, Air Craft, Boats | Marine, Welding and...</div>
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On Thursday, January 24, 2019, 12:06:44 PM PST, Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net> wrote:
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal">Yes; you’re right; Dynaliner is their best product for thermal issues.</div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> warthodson@aol.com <warthodson@aol.com> <br clear="none"><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:17 AM<br clear="none"><b>To:</b> fmags@cox.net; healeys@autox.team.net<br clear="none"><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior</div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">When I was restoring my BJ8 (about 6-8 years ago) I tried to compare various thermal insulation efficiencies. I.E. "R" values. My primary concern was heat not sound. Many of the sources made it nearly impossible because they do not publish this information. I just looked at Dynamat's website & in a quick search could not find any "R" value information. However, I did notice that they seem to be saying Dynamat is primarily for sound insulation & their Dynaliner is primarily for thermal insulation. Remember that <b>anything</b> you put between the heat source & the cockpit will act as an insulator. But some things will be better at it than other things. Dynaliner is a closed cell (air spaces) rubber material. That sounds similar to neoprene to me. By the way, it is the small air spaces that do most of the insulating, not the rubber.</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">R values are often stated as btuh/inch. So, if something has an R value of 8 btu/inch & the material is 1/2" thick it will actually have an R of 4. </span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">This is primarily discussing conduction. Heat is transferred by conduction, convection & radiation. </span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">The insulation in a Healey will have to be able to withstand relatively high temperatures, perhaps water & possibly some abrasion. </span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">I am trying to point out that Dynamat appears to not be the best way to reduce heat if that is your goal & there is very limited space available for good thermal insulation so use the best available after you figure out what that is. </span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">Gary Hodson</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt;"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">-----Original Message-----<br clear="none">From: Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net><br clear="none">To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br clear="none">Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2019 5:07 pm<br clear="none">Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">Bob,</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">Agree with other posts about replacing grommets, and sealing any gaps you find in the engine bay. Any opening will let heat in of course.</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">I didn’t use any caulking when I installed the tunnel; just the factory seals for the tunnel IIRC; But, it’s been awhile…</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">As far as heat insulation, I used a product called Refletix; can’t say it reduced the heat any or not; it’s still hot in the footwell. I think if I were doing it today, I’d use Dynamat. I just put some in another vehicle as sound insulation and it works great for that and is supposed to reduce heat as well. I put the Refletix on the gearbox side of the tunnel as it’s rather thick, but I think I’d put Dynamat on the inside. It’s very thin (but heavy), so I don’t think it would make the carpet look too thick. Not cheap, though. Alot of the custom car shops use it; Foose, Kindigit, etc.</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">BTW, Dynamat does make an entire kit for one of the big Healey’s; Don’t recall which one, but its on their website and should be a custom fit. Should work on all big Healey’s I would think.</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">I need to pull my tunnel off as well to replace the gearshift boot; may put some Dynamat in there as long as I have it off.</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">Hope this helps,</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">Frank</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;">’65 BJ8</span></div>
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<div class="yiv1268855650MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;color:black;"><Now I am ready to install the interior with new heat insulation. What is the recommended caulking compound to use when installing the tunnel? Is it recommended to install heat insulation on the transmission side of the tunnel. If so, what to use, for example heavy duty 3M spray or?></span></div>
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