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<p>I had to do this recently. If it's stuck on with an adhesive
sealant--Right Stuff, etc.--you are screwed. I ended up sawing
through the hardened sealant with a large, serrated knife (the
kind you carve a turkey with). I hurt my elbow, perhaps
permanently, but had no choice as the pan was cracked and part of
the blade broke off in the pan. I used a gasket and a sealant
when I reinstalled the pan; theoretically if I need to remove it
again I can saw through the gasket. I might buy an electric
carving knife just to do this, but I'm not sure you could get the
blade started.</p>
<p>3M Adhesive Remover softened the lingering sealant (you know it's
good--the 3M stuff--because it's banned in California). Then,
it's lots of scraping.<br>
</p>
<p>Bob</p>
<p>ps. When I was looking for a 'magic answer' I found videos and
photos of people lifting small block Chevy engines by the
carburettor studs--with the bolts removed--on the manifold, which
had been affixed with Right Stuff sealant.</p>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/6/2018 8:39 AM,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com">simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</a> wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">I’m trying to get the sump (oil pan?) off
my MkII 3000.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I’ve given up for now but will check again
that I’ve taken off all the bolts.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It absolutely won’t shift and I’m finding
it very hard to get an implement in with which to prise it
open.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I guess that it’s sealed with and cemented
to the block with some gloop that just won’t shift.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Is there a clever way to do this?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">What’s the magic answer?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Simon<o:p></o:p></p>
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