<font color='black' size='2' face='arial'>
<div>Another sloshing horror story. We were 600 mikes from home & in the Rocky Mountains. A friend's 3000 had been running fine until one day in the mountains. It began to run fine for about 15-20 minutes, then slowly die. A few minutes later it would restart & run fine for 15-20 minutes & die again. It repeated this pattern over & over. Of course we checked adjusted &/or replaced everything we could. The problem turned out to be the sloshing sealer that had separated in a large sheet from the bottom of the tank. With the pump running the sheet would be sucked up to the pickup & the pump was being starved for fuel. When the engine died & the ignition was shut off the sheet of sealant would slowly sink back down to the bottom of the tank & the pump could again deliver fuel until the sheet was again drawn up to the pick up. </div>
<div>Gary Hodson</div>
<br>
<br>
<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Fri, Nov 30, 2018 10:47 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pumps (AGAIN!)<br>
<br>
<div id="yiv2223433046">
<div>
<div>Moah DATA! Yeah!</div>
<div>Definitely makes sense. Both my Healeys have had their tanks
sloshed with Bill Hirsch sealer (I heard Bill Hirsch died
recently, BTW). The BJ8's tank was done at least 20 years ago,
the BN2's more recently. I inspect them occasionally and have
seen no evidence of any fragments of the sealer either coming out
of the feed pipe or in the pumps when I pull them apart. Also,
when the last pump stopped and I fitted my last spare pump it
started pumping enthusiastically--and I drove it for 10 or so
miles--so if the pickup tube in the tank is plugged I wouldn't
expect that, but I'll have a look inside the tanks.</div>
<div>I've reported it before, but when restoring the BN2 we bought a
used tank. We had an issues with an extremely erratic pump: no
pumping, heavy thrashing (like fibrillation you get when the tank
runs dry or you have an inlet leak) and occasionally, normal
pumping. We blew out the lines, tried several needle valves and
Grose jets but to no avail. Finally, my dad had a hunch and cut
the pickup tube out of the tank. Sure enough, there was a lot of
corrosion and a pinhole leak in the tube near where it exited the
tank. Dad speculated that the flux used to solder the tube in the
tank was corrosive and not cleaned off correctly (well, it was a
40-year-old tank at the time). Something to put in the
diagnostics database.</div>
<div>Bob<br clear="none">
</div>
<div class="yiv2223433046yqt2459807578" id="yiv2223433046yqtfd55469">
<div class="yiv2223433046moz-cite-prefix">On 11/28/2018 8:26 PM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
</blockquote></div>
</div>
<div class="yiv2223433046yqt2459807578" id="yiv2223433046yqtfd24568"></div>
<div>
<div class="yiv2223433046yqt2459807578" id="yiv2223433046yqtfd11933">
<div>This discussion about fuel pumps has revived
something from the old grey matter ...
<div>To those mentioning repeated failures one
problem that will cause premature failure is restrictions in
the supply to the pump.</div>
<div>The way these pumps work is that the spring in
the pump provides the pressure. As the pressure on the output
side of the pump decreases the diaphragm moves down to a point
where the points close, that energizes the coil to pull the
armature up against the spring pressure to the point where the
points "flip" and open to stop the current flow through the
coil.</div>
<div>HOWEVER if there is a restriction in the fuel
line feeding the pump the low pressure at the pump inlet can
create a partial vacuum which will prevent the armature from
rising fully and thus the points from "flipping" .</div>
<div>When this happens the coil remains energized and
"cooks" in a short time thus ruining the pump.</div>
<div>I discovered this while trying to resolve a
delivery problem in a car that had had the tank "sloshed". The
sloshing compound had coated the gauze filter inside the tank
severly restricting the flow. </div>
<div>The test was to put an analogue ammeter on the
pump electrical supply which showed the prolonged current flow
to the pump.</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>M</div>
</div>
<br clear="none">
<div class="yiv2223433046gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">On Wed, Nov 28, 2018, 9:45 PM Kees Oudesluijs
<<a href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a> wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote class="yiv2223433046gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">
<div>
<div>Quite so. The only thing I can come up with is the car is
hardly being used and being stored in dampish non
ventilated conditions, thus corroding the points. As I
said before I have had SU fuel pumps in from more than 50
years old which were absolutely perfect except for the
points corroded because the car was not used enough or
worn because of not being adjusted properly. <br clear="none">
</div>
<div>If used regularly and kept dry internally they last
forever.<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Another thing: If you have had to tap the pump to get it
going, replace/polish and adjust the points ASAP. Do not
wait until you have to repeat the tapping.</div>
<div>When fitting a new SU-pump you best remove the cap to
inspect and if needed clean the points first with very
fine polishing paper, I use at least 1000. It is even not
uncommon that brand new pumps that have been on the shelf
for a while, either at home, in the garage or at the
suppliers do not work because the points are
dirty/corroded and have to be attended to first. I have
bought many pumps that were sold as "defective, for spares
or repair" for a song, that did not work and appeared to
be in fact NOS. Cleaning and polishing the points was all
that was needed for these. If you have a new/rebuild spare
pump in store , remove the cap and insert a bit of acid
free paper in between the points, this will stop
electrolytic corrosion.</div>
<div>In the late 70´s I was collecting quite a lot of Jensen
parts and got presented a new pump by Jensen Parts &
Service that was said to be defective but only needed some
small attention. My old pump kept working (more than
160000mls) so the new pump was never needed. About 5 or 6
years ago I came across that pump and decided to have a
look inside. It was of course mint but there were real
cauliflowers around the points. Just polished them, fitted
a transil (as I do with all my rebuilds) and is now in my
present car.<br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Kees Oudesluijs</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div class="yiv2223433046m_-859660861838157moz-cite-prefix">Op 28-11-2018
om 18:50 schreef <a class="yiv2223433046m_-859660861838157moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeydoc@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:healeydoc@gmail.com">healeydoc@gmail.com</a>:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Century';COLOR:#000000;">
<div>I do not understand the problem with the SU pump
that everyone feels that they have to re invent the
wheel. I have using the standard SU pump with points
in my Healey for almost 75000 miles and never had a
failure. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>We also have been installing the standard SU
points pump here at the shop on every car we do for
over 40 years </div>
<div>Everything from Healey’s, MG’s and Jaguar’s and
had very few failures.</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Century';COLOR:#000000;">David
Nock<br clear="none">
<a class="yiv2223433046m_-859660861838157moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeydoc@sbcglobal.net" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:healeydoc@sbcglobal.net">healeydoc@sbcglobal.net</a><br clear="none">
209 948 8767<br clear="none">
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<br clear="none">
Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into
the <br clear="none">
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your favorites <br clear="none">
by visiting the site at.<br clear="none">
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</div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;">
<div style="FONT:10pt tahoma;">
<div> </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5;">
<div><b>From:</b> <a title="ah3000me@gmail.com" href="mailto:ah3000me@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:ah3000me@gmail.com">Tom</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, November 28, 2018
6:00 AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="healeys@autox.team.net" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>
</div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Fuel pumps
(AGAIN!)</div>
</div>
</div>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;">
<div>I found the voltage regulator was misadjusted
when i got my car. At 17V, a new pump quit
working in less than a year. At 14V, the
replacement is 10 years old and happily ticking
away.
<div> </div>
<div>Tom</div>
</div>
<div> </div>
<div class="yiv2223433046gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">On Tue, Nov 27, 2018, 9:16 PM Frank
Magnusson <<a href="mailto:fmags@cox.net" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:fmags@cox.net">fmags@cox.net</a>
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote class="yiv2223433046gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT:1ex;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid;">
<div lang="EN-US">
<div class="yiv2223433046m_-859660861838157m_-9069400391176008071WordSection1">
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal">Hi Bob,</div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal"> </div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal">I’m also not sure why
you’re having problems with pumps. Maybe
something common between all of them; the
vent, the ground, the venting of the fuel
system, etc.</div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal"> </div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal">I replaced my original
pump in the late 80’s with a stock SU pump
with points and it’s been on the car ever
since; no problems except last year when
it didn’t want to start, but a rap with a
rubber mallet and it’s been working ever
since.</div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal"> </div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal">Try Healey Surgeons for
a replacement pump. Their parts are 100%
correct and I’ve never had a problem with
anything from them in almost 30 years.</div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal"> </div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal">Best of luck,</div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal">Frank</div>
<div class="yiv2223433046MsoNormal">’65 BJ8</div>
</div>
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