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<p>That depends, if you use an expansion/overflow bottle you fill up
to the rim of the radiator filler neck. The level in the expansion
bottle to about halfway. Without expansion bottle you just leave
the coolant to settle to its own level after filling up the
radiator. After the first few trips it will spill some coolant
untill the level settles.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 17-9-2018 om 21:36 schreef David P:<br>
</div>
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<p>..also, do not fill the radiator to full capacity. It must have
room for some expansion or they will hydro lock to some degree.
DaveP<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/17/2018 10:00 AM, David Nock BCS
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:2C7BA1D2923D478085F7009B4596F67A@DavidNockHP">
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<div>The main purpose of putting a higher pressure cap is to
stop the continues loss of coolant after shutting the
engine down and the engine temp going up over the 212
point. By putting a 10 or 13 max pressure cap you have
raised the boiling point 10 to 20 degrees thus stopping
the coolant loss.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>It wont do anything for the overheating.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>On your newer cars today they need a much higher
pressure cap because the run the engine temp much higher
to reduce emissions. I have seen some new Jaguars and Land
Rovers that are running a 25 lb cap. As well as cooling
systems that you can not fill up correctly with out using
a vacuum type filler. Due to the fact that there will be
air pockets in the cooling system that you can not remove
any other way.</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century';
COLOR:
 #000000">David Nock<br>
British Car Specialists<br>
209-948-8767<br>
<a href="http://www.britishcarspecialists.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">www.britishcarspecialists.com</a></div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century';
COLOR:
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<div> </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<div style="font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a
title="coudesluijs@chello.nl"
href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl"
moz-do-not-send="true">Kees Oudesluijs</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 17, 2018 7:53 AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="healeys@autox.team.net"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>
</div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Thermostats</div>
</div>
</div>
<div> </div>
</div>
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<p>7 Psi should be more than enough on these old engines.
Water pump seal may fail (as mentioned), so may the
hoses and the original style radiator if you operate
under a higher pressure. Modern cars can take much
higher pressures of 20Psi or more. If your cooling
system is up to scratch there should not be a problem.
i.e. clean system, radiator with enough capacity,
thermostatically controlled electric fan to keep things
under control in dense traffic and hot weather. The
electric fan may not be original but when these cars
were new traffic conditions were not as demanding as in
these days. It just keeps you out of trouble at very
little costs and a bit of ingenuity (breakers yard).<br>
</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 17-9-2018 om 14:14 schreef
Michael Salter:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:BN6PR22MB085295BDEBD870CC855FDD61A11E0@BN6PR22MB0852.namprd22.prod.outlook.com"
type="cite">
<meta content="text/html; ">
Also, with respect to cooling system pressure, the water
pump seal in the 6 cylinder engines typically won't
handle much over 10 p.s.i.. M
<hr tabindex="-1" style="WIDTH: 98%; DISPLAY:

inline-block">
<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font
style="FONT-SIZE:
 11pt" face="Calibri,
sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>
on behalf of David Nock <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeydoc@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">mailto:healeydoc@gmail.com</a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, September 16, 2018 11:16:50 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Linwood Rose<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Forum Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Thermostats</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>If you are using the alloy radiator you have a
short neck cap. Depending on the press’s app you are
using you can not use a bellows type thermostat.
Because the bellows will collapse if you use anything
over 7 lbs. Then the thermostat will close and the
engine will overheat. <br>
<br>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>
On Sep 16, 2018, at 7:19 AM, Linwood Rose <<a
href="mailto:linwoodrose@mac.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">linwoodrose@mac.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>I would like to go back to Steve Byers’
comment. I am not so much concerned about my car
overheating. When the engine was rebuilt it was
thoroughly cleaned to get rid of all sludge. I run
an aluminum radiator, have built and installed air
ducting for improved flow. I do not have an
electric fan.
<div> </div>
<div>My problem was that my engine ran cool and
would take quite a while to “warm up.” I think I
was using a 165 degree (or thereabouts)
non-sleeved thermostat. Robert Shaw as I recall.
So I wanted to get my engine up to 185-190
degrees sooner. I went with one of the same AC
sleeved thermostats 82 degrees centigrade from
Kees that Steve used. The engine seems to be
much happier and gets to running temp more
quickly.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>At least for my engine, a 160-165 degree
thermostat keeps things cool too long. In a
perfect world I would prefer David Nock’s
bellows thermostat but with a 185-190 degree
opening. Since that doesn’t seem to be available
I think I will stick with the AC unit and keep
my eye on the temp. Gauge.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I am no authority on this. I am simply
passing along my experience. Am I understanding
all of this correctly? </div>
<div> </div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div>Lin<br>
<br>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>
On Sep 15, 2018, at 9:30 PM, Rossm <<a
href="mailto:rvmaylor@shaw.ca"
moz-do-not-send="true">rvmaylor@shaw.ca</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>To be fair Michael, it is hot maybe three
days a year in Canada?:) . I left Calgary
yesterday for the Rendezvous and it was
snowing already. First time the hood
contraption on the BN6 has been up since
last September. <br>
<br>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my
iPhone</div>
<div><br>
On Sep 15, 2018, at 10:50, Michael Salter
<<a
href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
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<div>Well I have watched this discussion
on sleeved thermostats for the last
week but now I just have to say. When
the sleeved thermostats went NLA,
about 45 years ago, we resorted to
installing just plain old Stant 175
degree stats and guess what ... not
one complaint or comment on running
hotter or overheating and absolutely
no sign of any symptoms of overheating
on my own BJ8 even in the hottest of
ambient temperatures. It just didn't
happen!!! Just sayin'. M
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 DISPLAY: inline-block">
<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif"
color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>
on behalf of Rossm <<a
href="mailto:rvmaylor@shaw.ca"
moz-do-not-send="true">rvmaylor@shaw.ca</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, September
15, 2018 10:35:32 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Forum Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys]
Thermostats</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
</div>
<font size="2"><span
style="FONT-SIZE:
 11pt">
<div class="PlainText">Three sleeved
thermostats, one on the right 160
degrees, middle no idea, left is
a Smiths x85002s/86 (180F) and has
failed open. <br>
<br>
</div>
</span></font></div>
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