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<div>I just have to ask:</div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Is this Thermostat thread now the longest on this board, far exceeding what tires should I use or what oil is best ?</div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Wow !<br>
<br>
Regards,
<div>Richard C</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Sep 17, 2018, at 5:37 PM, David P <<a href="mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com">frogeye@porterscustom.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<p>..also, do not fill the radiator to full capacity. It must have room for some expansion or they will hydro lock to some degree. DaveP<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/17/2018 10:00 AM, David Nock BCS wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:2C7BA1D2923D478085F7009B4596F67A@DavidNockHP">
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<div>The main purpose of putting a higher pressure cap is to stop the continues loss of coolant after shutting the engine down and the engine temp going up over the 212 point. By putting a 10 or 13 max pressure cap you have raised the boiling point 10 to 20
degrees thus stopping the coolant loss.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>It wont do anything for the overheating.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>On your newer cars today they need a much higher pressure cap because the run the engine temp much higher to reduce emissions. I have seen some new Jaguars and Land Rovers that are running a 25 lb cap. As well as cooling systems that you can not fill up
correctly with out using a vacuum type filler. Due to the fact that there will be air pockets in the cooling system that you can not remove any other way.</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR:
#000000">
David Nock<br>
British Car Specialists<br>
209-948-8767<br>
<a href="http://www.britishcarspecialists.com" moz-do-not-send="true">www.britishcarspecialists.com</a></div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR:
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<div style="font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a title="coudesluijs@chello.nl" href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl" moz-do-not-send="true">
Kees Oudesluijs</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 17, 2018 7:53 AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="healeys@autox.team.net" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send="true">
healeys@autox.team.net</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Thermostats</div>
</div>
</div>
<div> </div>
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<p>7 Psi should be more than enough on these old engines. Water pump seal may fail (as mentioned), so may the hoses and the original style radiator if you operate under a higher pressure. Modern cars can take much higher pressures of 20Psi or more. If your
cooling system is up to scratch there should not be a problem. i.e. clean system, radiator with enough capacity, thermostatically controlled electric fan to keep things under control in dense traffic and hot weather. The electric fan may not be original but
when these cars were new traffic conditions were not as demanding as in these days. It just keeps you out of trouble at very little costs and a bit of ingenuity (breakers yard).<br>
</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 17-9-2018 om 14:14 schreef Michael Salter:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:BN6PR22MB085295BDEBD870CC855FDD61A11E0@BN6PR22MB0852.namprd22.prod.outlook.com" type="cite">
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Also, with respect to cooling system pressure, the water pump seal in the 6 cylinder engines typically won't handle much over 10 p.s.i.. M
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="FONT-SIZE:
11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send="true">
mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a> on behalf of David Nock <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeydoc@gmail.com" moz-do-not-send="true">
mailto:healeydoc@gmail.com</a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, September 16, 2018 11:16:50 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Linwood Rose<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Forum Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Thermostats</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>If you are using the alloy radiator you have a short neck cap. Depending on the press’s app you are using you can not use a bellows type thermostat. Because the bellows will collapse if you use anything over 7 lbs. Then the thermostat will close and the
engine will overheat. <br>
<br>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>
On Sep 16, 2018, at 7:19 AM, Linwood Rose <<a href="mailto:linwoodrose@mac.com" moz-do-not-send="true">linwoodrose@mac.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>I would like to go back to Steve Byers’ comment. I am not so much concerned about my car overheating. When the engine was rebuilt it was thoroughly cleaned to get rid of all sludge. I run an aluminum radiator, have built and installed air ducting for improved
flow. I do not have an electric fan.
<div> </div>
<div>My problem was that my engine ran cool and would take quite a while to “warm up.” I think I was using a 165 degree (or thereabouts) non-sleeved thermostat. Robert Shaw as I recall. So I wanted to get my engine up to 185-190 degrees sooner. I went with
one of the same AC sleeved thermostats 82 degrees centigrade from Kees that Steve used. The engine seems to be much happier and gets to running temp more quickly.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>At least for my engine, a 160-165 degree thermostat keeps things cool too long. In a perfect world I would prefer David Nock’s bellows thermostat but with a 185-190 degree opening. Since that doesn’t seem to be available I think I will stick with the AC
unit and keep my eye on the temp. Gauge.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I am no authority on this. I am simply passing along my experience. Am I understanding all of this correctly?
</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div>Lin<br>
<br>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>
On Sep 15, 2018, at 9:30 PM, Rossm <<a href="mailto:rvmaylor@shaw.ca" moz-do-not-send="true">rvmaylor@shaw.ca</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>To be fair Michael, it is hot maybe three days a year in Canada?:) . I left Calgary yesterday for the Rendezvous and it was snowing already. First time the hood contraption on the BN6 has been up since last September.
<br>
<br>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>
On Sep 15, 2018, at 10:50, Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com" moz-do-not-send="true">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
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<div>Well I have watched this discussion on sleeved thermostats for the last week but now I just have to say. When the sleeved thermostats went NLA, about 45 years ago, we resorted to installing just plain old Stant 175 degree stats and guess what ... not one
complaint or comment on running hotter or overheating and absolutely no sign of any symptoms of overheating on my own BJ8 even in the hottest of ambient temperatures. It just didn't happen!!! Just sayin'. M
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send="true">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of Rossm
<<a href="mailto:rvmaylor@shaw.ca" moz-do-not-send="true">rvmaylor@shaw.ca</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, September 15, 2018 10:35:32 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Forum Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Thermostats</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
</div>
<font size="2"><span style="FONT-SIZE:
11pt">
<div class="PlainText">Three sleeved thermostats, one on the right 160 degrees, middle no idea, left is a Smiths x85002s/86 (180F) and has failed open.
<br>
<br>
</div>
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