<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">On this matter of choosing the proper thermostat for your car I fear that I am becoming the saying on my favorite bumper sticker : “I am <span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">schizophrenic, and so am I.”</span><div>Lin<br><br><div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On Sep 16, 2018, at 1:52 PM, Harold Manifold <<a href="mailto:manifold@telus.net">manifold@telus.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="436134816-16092018"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">I tried to help myself but I have once again been drawn into a
discussion about engine thermostats. As I read the posts the underlying
questions are what is the best thermostat and do I have the right one? I will
correct one Poster who suggested the role of the thermostat was to control
pressure in the cooling system. While thermostats may have an effect on pressure
in the cooling system that is the job of the radiator cap. </font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="436134816-16092018"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><font face="Arial"><font size="2"><font color="#0000ff"><span class="436134816-16092018">I suggest the best thermostat has these features: fails
in the open position i.e. coolant circulates through the radiator. You can get
home with a cool engine but not a hot one. Blocks circulation of coolant between
the engine and radiator until the engine has reached its predetermined
temperature. i.e. The thermostat fits the housing and seals when closed.
</span><span class="436134816-16092018">The thermostat fully opens about 15-20
degrees above its rated temperature. The thermostat should have a “jiggle pin”
or “check valve” that allows trapped air in the cooling system to pass through
the thermostat and be released from the
system.</span></font></font></font></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"><span class="436134816-16092018"></span></font> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"><span class="436134816-16092018">Do I have the right one? Based on old manuals I have
seen there were two temperature ratings for 3000 Healeys, Summer 70 Deg C/160
Deg F and Winter 86 Deg C/185 Deg F. I believe the thinking behind the two
thermostat approach was to reduce boiling the radiator in summer and to make the
heater work better in the winter. Depending on where you live and and
the driving conditions may influence which end of the range you want to be
at. If you live in Florida and/or drive in slow moving traffic I would suggest
the 160 degree. Your cooling system will have more reserve when traffic
slows. If you live in Ottawa 185 is likely better as it is winter all the time.
However, the most important factor is not opening temperature but does the
thermostat properly control the coolant temperature. If you have a 160 degree
thermostat and the coolant temperature fluctuates between 160-180 then it is the
right one. Likewise the 185 should stay between 185-205. It is most important
for the cooling system to stay between the lower and upper temperatures. If the
temperature is not between these two points then the cooling system is "not in
control".</span></font></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"><span class="436134816-16092018"></span></font> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"><span class="436134816-16092018">Bottom line is if the cooling system is "in control"
and you are happy with the way the car warms up you have the right
thermostat.</span></font></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"><span class="436134816-16092018"></span></font> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><font face="Arial"><font size="2"><font color="#0000ff"><span class="436134816-16092018">Harold</span></font></font></font></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="436134816-16092018"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div><font size="2" face="Arial"></font><br>
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<font size="2" face="Tahoma"><b>From:</b> Healeys
[<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Linwood
Rose<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, September 16, 2018 7:19 AM<br><b>To:</b>
Rossm<br><b>Cc:</b> Forum Healeys<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys]
Thermostats<br></font><br></div>
<div></div>I would like to go back to Steve Byers’ comment. I am not so much
concerned about my car overheating. When the engine was rebuilt it was
thoroughly cleaned to get rid of all sludge. I run an aluminum radiator, have
built and installed air ducting for improved flow. I do not have an electric
fan.
<div><br></div>
<div>My problem was that my engine ran cool and would take quite a while to
“warm up.” I think I was using a 165 degree (or thereabouts) non-sleeved
thermostat. Robert Shaw as I recall. So I wanted to get my engine up to 185-190
degrees sooner. I went with one of the same AC sleeved thermostats 82 degrees
centigrade from Kees that Steve used. The engine seems to be much happier and
gets to running temp more quickly.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>At least for my engine, a 160-165 degree thermostat keeps things cool too
long. In a perfect world I would prefer David Nock’s bellows thermostat but with
a 185-190 degree opening. Since that doesn’t seem to be available I think I will
stick with the AC unit and keep my eye on the temp. Gauge.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>I am no authority on this. I am simply passing along my experience. Am I
understanding all of this correctly? </div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div>Lin<br><br>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>On Sep 15, 2018, at 9:30 PM, Rossm <<a href="mailto:rvmaylor@shaw.ca">rvmaylor@shaw.ca</a>> wrote:<br><br></div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>To be fair Michael, it is hot maybe three days a year in Canada?:) .
I left Calgary yesterday for the Rendezvous and it was snowing already.
First time the hood contraption on the BN6 has been up since last September.
<br><br>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>On Sep 15, 2018, at 10:50, Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br><br></div>
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<div>Well I have watched this discussion on sleeved thermostats for the last
week but now I just have to say. When the sleeved thermostats went NLA,
about 45 years ago, we resorted to installing just plain old Stant 175
degree stats and guess what ... not one complaint or comment on running
hotter or overheating and absolutely no sign of any symptoms of overheating
on my own BJ8 even in the hottest of ambient temperatures. It just didn't
happen!!! Just sayin'. M
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt" color="#000000" face="Calibri, sans-serif"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>
on behalf of Rossm <<a href="mailto:rvmaylor@shaw.ca">rvmaylor@shaw.ca</a>><br><b>Sent:</b>
Saturday, September 15, 2018 10:35:32 AM<br><b>To:</b> Forum
Healeys<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Thermostats</font>
<div> </div></div></div><font size="2"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt">
<div class="PlainText">Three sleeved thermostats, one on the right 160
degrees, middle no idea, left is a Smiths x85002s/86 (180F) and has
failed open. <br><br></div></span></font></div></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
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