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<div>I got a Nocks refurb genset about 5+ years ago after trying to get 3 others unsuccessfully rebuilt and several regulators as well.</div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">It still works wonderful. They might give you a trade-in cost reduction <br>
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Regards,
<div>Richard C</div>
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On Sep 3, 2018, at 7:01 PM, Alex <<a href="mailto:alexmm@roadrunner.com">alexmm@roadrunner.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<p><font face="Arial Black">Hi Michael, <br>
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<p><font face="Arial Black">First I checked the field winding's continuity with an ohmmeter. It isn't open, but I have no way of knowing what the correct resistance should be (there may be shorted windings for all I know).<br>
</font></p>
<font face="Arial Black">Then I tied the output terminal (D) to the field winding terminal (F) with a short robust clip lead.
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In any case, when I run the engine with the generator windings tied together and disconnected from the car's wiring, I get about 12 volts DC. If I rev the engine to 3000 RPM, the voltage doesn't rise. That seems to me to indicate a flaky generator.<br>
<br>
I pulled the generator out today and will bring it to a local re-build shop for an evaluation. Interestingly, the generator does not have a cover band over the commutator and brush area, as shown in the shop manual on Page N.9.
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<br>
It may be that this generator was replaced years ago with some sort of OEM part that wasn't Lucas.<br>
<br>
I notice that the Nocks at British Car Specialists offer rebuilt generators. Has anyone deployed one of these refurbished units?<br>
<br>
== Alex in Maine <br>
1960 BT7, "The Blue Mainie" <br>
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On 9/3/2018 11:31 AM, Michael Salter wrote:<br>
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In my experience the most reliable test for a generator is as explained in the Workshop Manual.
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Remove the leads, bridge the D & F terminals then test the voltage to ground with rising RPM.<br>
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I've always found it to be foolproof. <br>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000" face="Calibri, sans-serif"><b>From:</b> Healeys
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on behalf of Alex
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:alexmm@roadrunner.com"><alexmm@roadrunner.com></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 3, 2018 9:11:06 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> jim; <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">
healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Generator?</font>
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<p>Thank you for your note, Jim.<br>
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I will use my ohmmeter today to check the continuity of the field winding.<br>
<br>
== Alex in Maine <br>
1960 BT7, "The Blue Mainie" <br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/3/2018 3:13 AM, jim wrote:<br>
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<div>On Sunday, September 2, 2018, 6:42:38 PM PDT, Alex <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:alexmm@roadrunner.com" moz-do-not-send="true">
<alexmm@roadrunner.com></a> wrote: </div>
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<div dir="ltr">My BT7 generator seems dead. There's no output voltage at point D on the
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<div dir="ltr">generator at speed.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">== Alex in Maine<br>
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<div dir="ltr">1960 BT7<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Got any voltage on the field winding? gotta have excitation to make the generator gen..If you do have voltage there, remove the wire and check for continuity to ground through the field winding..current flow is what makes it all work ..Maybe
put a dc ammeter in the field winding circuit and see whats what<br>
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Jim<br>
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