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<p>Stainless steel brake lines are not always recommended. Some
claim the s-s lines can fatigue crack. It is also hard to bend and
flare. <br>
</p>
<p>Supposedly best are Cunifer brake lines. Marine grade material
first used in brake systems by Volvo in the 70´s I think. They are
tough and do not corrode like the steel lines do. They are fit and
forget. <br>
</p>
<p>You can get complete made up sets, however they are usually
packed in a roll and you have to bend the pipes yourself, but the
lines are cut to the correct length, flares are already made up
and the correct fittings already fitted.. The bending can be done
by hand easily but ideally you need a bottle/pipe/tin/wheel/wood
block with the right curve to prevent kinking. If you are very
careful all can be done free hand. <br>
</p>
<p>Copper lines are also offered, but generally not recommended as
copper may harden, get brittle and fatigue crack. Very easy to
bend and make up flares though.</p>
<p>Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there
is water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e.
wheel cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1
and replace every 2 years.</p>
<p>I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at
the same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant
(blue/green).<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 23-7-2018 om 08:20 schreef John
Spaur:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Pipe
bending is an art </span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">…</span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">--and
switch to stainless </span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">(If
you decide to use stainless steel be prepared for it. The
flaring tools are different! Single flares, you can succeed
most of the time but quality control is difficult. Double
flares, maybe once or twice if you are lucky until the tool
breaks. The best advice it don’t use SS unless you have the
right tools or have a shop flare the lines. You should also
install copper cone washers between the SS flare and the
brake line seat. It prevents galling of the seat. Oh… the
washers are hard to find and hard to install; but you can
make them.)</span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">I
bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake
wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I don’t recall what I
paid but it was not expensive and it was in and out the same
day.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">John
Spaur<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">’62
BT7</span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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