<div dir="ltr">Ira -<div><br></div><div>You only really get vapor lock if the fuel line is over or next to the exhaust. The BJ8 has most of these issues sorted out (i.e. the BN1 has some problems with it because the fuel pump is mounted over the exhaust).</div><div><br></div><div>I had a similar problem with my BJ8 and I fixed it when I replaced the throttle shaft teflon bushes in the HD8's. Apparently when the car was getting hot, the old HD8 bushes were worn out and the air gap would get big leaning out the mixture and causing stalling symptoms. Usually revving won't fix vapor lock, so you could have worn bushes.</div><div><br>Best,</div><div><br></div><div>Alan<br><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 11:27 AM i erbs <<a href="mailto:eyera3000@gmail.com">eyera3000@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">Thanks <div dir="auto">I am thinking vapour lock<br><br><div data-smartmail="gmail_signature" dir="auto">Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br>typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone</div></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Fri, Jun 22, 2018, 4:59 PM Roger Grace <<a href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" target="_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
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<div>My BJ8 does the same. </div>
<div>I may be wrong, but think it may have something to do with engine
compartment temp at the carb intake area; air becomes less dense and hence less
O2 for combustion and mixture is now too rich at the idle setting and starts to
splutter.</div>
<div>I have put in one of those cheepo home wireless temp monitors (Wallmart) in
that area; in cabin able to monitor the engine compartment temp as well as the
air temp.</div>
<div>Seems to start when compartment goes approaches 150F plus when idling on a
hot day – particularly when the oil is hot after a run. Temp rises quite quickly
when you stop. Also oil temp. </div>
<div>One of the AH problems is that there does not seem to have a decent exit
path for the air entering. You can blow all you want through the rad but you
have to get the air out efficiently to keep engine compartment cooler. Don't
have a solution but maybe a pair of boat bilge fans ? or redirect the cold air
intake to carb area ? </div>
<div> </div>
<div>BTW have recently installed an electric water pump to improve cooling
capability at idle – separate topic. </div>
<div>rg</div>
<div> </div>
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<div><b>From:</b> <a title="eyera3000@gmail.com" rel="noreferrer">i
erbs</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Friday, June 22, 2018 11:51 AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="healeys@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer">Ahealey help</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Hot idle issue</div></div></div>
<div> </div></div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div>Had an idle issue when car got up to normal temp about 175 or so. Had the
carbs looked at. Found low float level. Fixing that fixed idle issue, but
not it's back when car runs above 195 in hot day stop and go traffic. New
flex fan. Rotted out extra core radiator. New su fuel pump. Car idles, then rpms
fall and car stalls unless I pull out choke or rev engine. Vapor lock??
<div>Any ideas?<br><br>
<div data-smartmail="gmail_signature">Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br>typos and
artifacts are the fault of my phone</div></div></div>
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