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<p>Sounds like a valve inside the pump has failed. The SU is really
not difficult to get going. Blow and suck through the inlet and
outlet to check if the valves are OK. This is usually the case.
If in order do not dismantle the pump body. <i><b>Make sure there
is no petrol inside as this can be dangerous when breathing
in!!!!!</b></i><br>
</p>
<p>Remove top cover. Mark the relative position of the pump and coil
housing. Remove the 6 screws holding pump body and coil housing
together, carefully prise the 3 layer diaphragm loose, taking
care not to damage the thin keflar layer, it may need a few light
taps on the coil housing. Prise the layers apart and use some
talcum powder very sparingly in between the layers. Remove the
diaphragm assembly by turning it anti clock wise. Remove the
bridge on which the contact points are fitted, remove the contact
points (be carefull not to damage the bridge when extracting the
case hardened pin) and inspect if they are serviceable. Note the
sequence of the various rings. There is also a small lead ring
fitted on the brass terminal screw which is a bit awkward to
remove. You can replace this later with a ring bend from solder
wire. Note down the way the wires/diode or capacitor are fitted. I
always replace the diode or capacitor with a transil (limit 18V)
to prevent spark erosion. This will also make the pump both
positive and negative earth.<br>
</p>
<p>Use some 400 grade sandpaper to remove the dirt and pits and
polish the points with 2000 grade flowerpaper. Also use the
flowerpaper to clean the pin. If necessary replace the points and
polish them with flowerpaper before fitting.</p>
<p>Fit the points, brass screw and bridge but take care not to
overtighten the screws as you may crack the bridge, making sure
the lower set of points can tumble. Fit the diaphragm, spring by
pushing it up in the threaded hole in the lower points assembly,
this can be a bit fiddly, and turn the diaphragm clockwise untill
the contact point just do not tumble any more when firmly pressing
up the diaphragm, than screw it back a bit until the screw holes
line up and than another 4 screw holes.</p>
<p>Fit pump and coil housing together using the gasket between the
keflar layer of the diaphragm and pump housing (you can make up
one yourself if the old one is damaged).</p>
<p>Now adjust the points by bending the tabs on the lower points
assembly: 0,9mm between the upper points blade and the top of the
bridge at the front and 2,3mm between the lower tab and the coil
housing.</p>
<p>Fit the cap, seal the cap using some tape and you are done.</p>
<p>If you have an older pump using Bakelite for the bridge and cap
you can repair them using Araldite when there are cracks or
breaks.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>There are some instructive videos on youtube and when Googling
you will find instructions for the repair, adjusting of the SU
pumps. In older publications you will probably find the 2,3mm gap
above should be 1,8mm, just ignore. <br>
</p>
<p>There are some variations in older contact points which means
that the adjustment is a bit different, but it is unlikely that
these points are fitted. Again the adjustment specs can be found
using Google.</p>
<p>In very rare cases the coil has been damaged. This can be
replaced. The coils of most SU-pumps are identical and can be
swapped.<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 28-5-2018 om 03:18 schreef Stephen
Hutchings:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:103204418.5886247.1527470298260@mail.yahoo.com">
<div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff;
font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande,
sans-serif;font-size:16px">
<div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1527469773082_4162" dir="ltr">I have a
Hardi fuel pump, which is very similar to the S.U. in design-
I put it on because when I switched to negative ground I had
one on the shelf, and it was ready to go, rather than
converting the S.U.</div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1527469773082_4162" dir="ltr">After a few
thousand miles, it's suddenly started to keep on clicking,
rather than the occasional click once it's filled up. I can't
find a leak anywhere, and the tank is full...so I don't know
how it could be sucking air.</div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1527469773082_4162" dir="ltr">Anyone know
what to look for next?</div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1527469773082_4162" dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1527469773082_4162" dir="ltr">PS, I got my
old S.U. pump and changed the polarity of the diode, but after
fiddling with the points the way I used to, I've had no luck
getting it going...it had been sitting a while.</div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1527469773082_4162" dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1527469773082_4162" dir="ltr">Stephen, BJ8</div>
</div>
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