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<p>I installed battery cutoff switch obtained from the local marine
equipment supply store. It is very heavy-duty, works nicely, and
includes a removable red "key" that helps ensure security. I also
added a small toggle switch on the battery cutoff mounting plate
that grounds the distributor security wire.</p>
<p>No. It does not look original. However, it fits perfectly in the
original's place. It has very low voltage drop when cranking the
starter motor.<br>
</p>
Alex in Maine<br>
1960 BT7<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/15/2018 3:06 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ggilliam@usol.com">ggilliam@usol.com</a>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:bc025c487233d5093a43917b11ceed6b@usol.com">
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<p>Bob.</p>
<p> Another item you didn't consider are the contacts in the
battery disconnect switch. I know with mine I have to sometimes
fiddle around with it to make good enough contact to run the
starter well. Don't know if the current available replacements
are satisfactory.</p>
<p>Regards,</p>
<p> Gordy </p>
<p>Longbridge BN4, with left side door lock</p>
<p>On 2018-05-15 10:30, Bob Spidell wrote:</p>
<blockquote type="cite" style="padding: 0 0.4em; border-left:
#1010ff 2px solid; margin: 0"><!-- html ignored -->
<!-- head ignored --><!-- meta ignored -->
<p>There's several variables to consider:</p>
<p>- Later 6-cyl cars have the battery in the boot. That's a
long cable run to the starter solenoid; the cables and
terminals need to be in good nick. </p>
<p>- Ditto the starter. The field coils in starters build up
resistance over time and, eventually, the starter won't crank
as well, putting even more load on the battery. After a
couple cranks, the field coils get warm and the resistance
builds up and, of course, the battery's reserve gets depleted.</p>
<p>- The higher the compression in your engine, the harder it is
to turn over.</p>
<p>- Thicker oil, like 20W-50 can bog an engine down a bit.</p>
<p>The more CCA you have, the more margin to start an engine,
esp. on a cold day (that's why CCA is the nominal stat for
batteries). My Healeys are harder to start after they've been
sitting for more than a few days. The 500CCA number I gave
was a SWAG; I haven't seen any full-size auto battery with
less than that anyway. We got a battery for my dad's '65
Mustang 289 with 550CCA from Autozone; Costco didn't sell the
size we needed. It cranks the V8 OK.</p>
<p>FWIW, when I rebuilt my BJ8's engine the (previously)
satisfactory wet cell battery I had wouldn't even turn the
engine over (later compression checks showed 180PSI +/- in all
6). I had the starter rebuilt and installed an 800CCA AGM
battery. The starter actually startled me the first time I
cranked it; it's nearly as fast as the geared starter in my
Mustang.</p>
<p>TLDR; The more the better.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2018 10:12 PM, John Spaur
wrote:</div>
<blockquote type="cite" style="padding: 0 0.4em; border-left:
#1010ff 2px solid; margin: 0"><!-- meta ignored -->
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">So... wise ones (and I mean that
sincerely)<!-- o ignored --></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><!-- o ignored --> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">My current battery is an Intimidator
rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in a post about a minimum
of 500.<!-- o ignored --></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><!-- o ignored --> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">How many CCA's should a battery have
for a Healey engine?<!-- o ignored --></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><!-- o ignored --> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">TIA<!-- o ignored --></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">John Spaur<!-- o ignored --></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">San Jose<!-- o ignored --></p>
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