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<p>Not quite,</p>
<p>The vent at the top should be directed upwards with the plastic
cap installed over the small plastic pipe with the ball valve
inside. <br>
</p>
<p>Other caps, e.g. from an MGB, have a small diameter open ended
metal pipe with the ball valve inside. This should have a bit of
plastic tubing fitted to it and be connected to a dry place
(boot). The same goes for the vent at the bottom of the cast iron
coil housing. <br>
</p>
<p>This vent is nor really important and absent in many pumps. You
can seal it without any bad effects. The bottom vent suffices.<br>
</p>
<p>In addition to that fit a tight rubber band over the seam between
coil housing and Bakelite/plastic cap or wrap it up with tape to
keep the moisture out.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 13-5-2018 om 17:00 schreef Bob
Spidell:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:7095e270-4008-f33b-90d0-b2ddc07da738@comcast.net">True
enough about the electronic pumps. This is what happens when
water gets into the electronics (attached photo). This pump had
about 50K miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious
rain in Washington state.
<br>
<br>
What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check
ball/valve that vents ozone out of the control (electronic)
section needs the plastic cap over over the vent. I haven't
bought a pump in a while, but IIRC some of them come with a metal
'pipe'--for lack of a better word--without the plastic cap that
helps prevent water from entering. Installing the cap--if you can
find one--involves pulling the metal pipe off--be careful you
don't lose the small ball bearing check ball--and installing the
plastic cap over it.
<br>
<br>
Bob
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
<br>
<blockquote type="cite">I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly
AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using the standard points and
adding a transil across the points to limit the voltage across
the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes the pump dual
polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible to attend
to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically
converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are
supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes
do, that´s it.
<br>
<br>
It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only
necessary to clean and polish the points and properly set the
point gaps, spring blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to
cast iron body 2,3mm, some say 1,8mm but that is a very early
setting. Replacement is easy but dismantling the pump is needed.
<br>
<br>
If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals
may have corroded. The valves may than need replacement.
Dismantle the pump, clean and rebuild. The old triple layer
diaphragm is nearly always in good serviceable condition and
preferable to a new single layer one. It may feel a bit stif,
but this is usually caused by the layers being stuck together.
Just pry the layers apart very carefully, especially the very
thin kevlar membrane and apply just a smear of talcum powder
between the layers.
<br>
<br>
There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding
process.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs
<br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
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