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<DIV>Earl - thanks for that explanation - as a Healey newbie I thought
that this wire was additional theft protection to prevent hotwire jump starting
... mmm you learn something every day !</DIV>
<DIV>However found it very useful when installing my smartphone/bluetooth
ammeter.</DIV>
<DIV>rg </DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=kags@shaw.ca>Earl Kagna</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, April 23, 2018 8:45 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=fredwescoe@gmail.com>Fred Wescoe</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=healeys@autox.team.net>Healey List</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] No start condition</DIV></DIV></DIV>
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<DIV>Fred – glad you got it sorted out.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I doubt that the problem was the black/white wire at the battery
switch. The sole purpose of that wire is to ground the ignition when the
switch is turned off thereby keeping the engine from possibly running on the
generator. (thanks to our old friend Norman Nock for teaching me this bit of
wisdom).</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The other end of the wire goes to the ignition coil. If the wire is
disconnected and taped off, the engine still cranks and runs as normal. If
the wire breaks and disconnects in the trunk, it would have to short to ground
continuously for the engine to stop, but everything else would still ‘light up’,
including the starter solenoid. If you still feel like messing with it,
you could easily prove all this out to yourself. In fact, a lot of people
I know have intentionally disconnected this wire in order to avoid the
possibility of the engine suddenly quitting from it shorting to ground anywhere
from the switch to the coil inside the harness under the car. (I don’t recommend
doing this).</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Your problem was almost certainly a bit of corrosion on one or both of the
battery posts. I’ve had this happen to me – everything goes completely
dark – nothing works. everything looks clean, but servicing the posts and
terminals gets it all happy again. Makes a good argument for regular
battery maintenance.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Hope this gets people thinking.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Cheers,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #141100">Earl
Kagna<BR>Victoria, B.C.<BR>BJ8, BT7 tri-carb</DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=fredwescoe@gmail.com>Fred
Wescoe</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, April 23, 2018 2:08 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=Healeys@autox.team.net>healeys</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Healeys] No start condition</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<DIV>Okay guys, lots of informed thoughts on my no start problem.
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I went to the battery cut off switch in the trunk and found that the
white/black wire was actually broken at the very end of the insulation.
The wire looked as through it was connected but actually wasn`t. I
stripped the wire and inserted it into the switch connector and the car
started! I turned the car off and restarted it multiple times just to make
sure. The problem seems resolved.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>While I was back there, I tightened all of the other switch connections and
thoroughly cleaned the battery terminals. So, my hope is the car will
start properly.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The first person to suggest the white/black wire possibility was Don
Day. I didn't think that could be the problem but after Len Hartnett and
Steve Byers also suggested the same wire, I checked and there it was.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>So many thanks to the allmost 20 people on the list who responded, all with
thoughtful recommendations, including cleaning the crap out of the
terminals.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks to everone, what a list!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Fred</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>66 BJ8</DIV></DIV>
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