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<p>That, of course, is the proper way to do it (though I don't think
it's mentioned in the manual, and I'm not smart enough to have
thought of it). Given my experience, however, I'm not convinced
the nominal torque value is sufficient to keep the washer from
spinning.</p>
<p>The aftermarket washers appear to be stamped--maybe OEM ones are
too--and the tab on the last ones I bought weren't perfectly
formed and looked insufficient to prevent turning on their own.</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/28/2018 8:33 AM, Bob Spidell
wrote:<br>
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<p>Simon,</p>
<p>A few years ago, I had just begun a long road trip in my BJ8
with my son. A hundred or so miles out of town the car
developed a loud, grinding, 'squeal' at the right front.
Assuming wheel bearing damage, I got the right front wheel up on
a jack and did the usual testing. All seemed normal, so I got
back on the road and the noise, of course, resumed. A few
hundred miles down the road the noise stopped.<br>
</p>
<p>We continued the trip--probably did 2-3K miles--and when I got
home I tore into the hub. Sure enough, that washer with the
inner tab had spun and turned about 90deg in the direction of
forward travel, then stopped (the noise was likely from the
washer grinding against the inside of the hub). So, yes, the
tabs on these washers can shear and the washer can rotate. I
don't recall bearing damage, but I likely replaced both wheel
bearings and associated parts on the car whilst I was in there.
If your other bearings were in good nick I think we know what
caused the problem (it's possible your bad bearing ran dry as
well).</p>
<p>I don't know if this was an original part, or it had been
replaced by a previous owner, but I blame the 'usual suspect:'
sub-par aftermarket parts manufacture. Also, I think the torque
specification for the big castellated nut that holds everything
together--IIRC, it's 70lb-ft--is a bit specious, as you have to
line up a slot on the castellated nut with the hole in the axle
threads for the cotter (and you'll have no idea what the actual,
final torque is after you turn the nut to line up with the
hold). Since my experience, I always torque the snot out of
that nut; i.e. I torque the nut to nominal or, nearly as tight
as I can, then put a big breaker bar on it and continue torquing
until at least the next slot (or the next, or the next ...).
That is a big nut and 'bolt,' it would take a gorilla to snap it
off or cross-thread. I've had no similar issue for 100K miles
or so, though I just went through my hubs again and a couple of
the bearings were worn, but had also been run dry. This time, I
sprung for (hopefully) better grease:</p>
<p><b><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://tinyurl.com/y9ljd69a" moz-do-not-send="true">https://tinyurl.com/y9ljd69a</a></b></p>
<p>This stuff feels--for lack of a better word--'slipperier' than
petroleum grease I've used. I have high hopes for it.<br>
</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/28/2018 7:30 AM, <a
class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk"
moz-do-not-send="true">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a> wrote:<br>
</div>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Hi,<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Some wisdom from the gurus please.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We’re looking at a MKII BT7 here. Disc
brakes and wire wheels.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now, I’ve “done” bearings before and
maybe did this one wrong last time……<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">So, I took it all apart. No worries.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The outer bearing was completely shot.
Surprisingly so as there had been very little movement
indeed when moving the wheel once off the ground. And no
“crunchiness” to the rotation. Certainly no noise or panic
inducing anything.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I cleaned everything off in white spirit
and, once all was pristine and dry, I gave everything a
quick look. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">See item 4, “washer”. The tab on mine had
broken off in the groove on the hub. Now, I see that this
washer is perhaps better called the “locating washer” when
one is looking at the picture for the disc wheel setup. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">But I don’t really see what the tab is
good for……surely the washer can’t rotate once everything is
tightened up, shims in situ etcetc? <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Can the washer have been rotating? Surely
not? And could the tab’s fracture have anything to do with
the condition of my outer bearing?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">(The inner bearing seems fine).<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">And, yes, I will get a new washer and I’m
replacing both bearings.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It’s just curiosity really.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Simon<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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