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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">The top cover is thick enough for
cutting the thread for the switch. Use a fibre washer to even out
the surface, not critical. There is barely any load on the switch
so one or two threads will be fine. You can fit a spacer plate on
the gear lever socket using Araldite or fix it with two small
screws with a sunken head. Secure the screws with Locktite. The
cover plate should be a bit taller than the surface on the socket
as the arc over which it will move is bigger.<br>
A similar switch with a longer nose (I think) can be found on the
gearbox of a Sunbeam/Hillman/Humber/Jensen-Healey 4sp box. I can
check if you let me know the dimensions of your switch (preferably
in mm) as I have a few lying about if I am not mistaken.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
Op 29-12-2017 om 19:01 schreef Bob Haskell:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:0d62f132-4461-52b6-3ed3-0de423489a6f@earthlink.net">Listers,
<br>
<br>
Anyone run across a center shift gearbox top cover fitted with a
reverse light switch, opposite the overdrive 3-4 switch?
<br>
<br>
See the attached image. The gear lever socket has the second flat
to engage a reverse lamp switch, but there are a couple of
issues. The top cover flange doesn't have the boss for the switch
(you can see the boss on the OD switch between the fiber washer
and the flange, and on the inside), so it's thinner. The flange
is also farther away from the gear lever socket. Compare the two
flanges to the two screws that hold the gear shift lever in place.
<br>
<br>
So I'd have to build up the inside of the flange and machine the
outside of the flange to move the switch far enough inboard.
<br>
<br>
Just thinking out loud.
<br>
<br>
Cheers,
<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell
<br>
AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php">http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php</a>
<br>
<br>
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