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<p>Michael,</p>
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<p>Having recently rebuilt my engine I can attest that there are no horizontal bolts holding the main caps to the engine block. What you may be seeing are some of the capscrews that hold the engine adapter plate in place. You should be able to remove the main
cap after removing those bolts. They are accessible under the timing cover. Replacement may be a little delicate as that is a gasketed joint.</p>
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<p>Good luck. </p>
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<p>Bill Lawrence</p>
<p>BN1 #554</p>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, October 1, 2017 5:22:51 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Austin Healey<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ</font>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Looking at the exploded view of the bottom end of the 100 engine
on page D/224 of the service manual I see that there are two horizontal bolts that fasten the front main cap into the block that are, I assume, accessible via the timing cvhanin cover.</span><br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">I do not see such hole(s) for the rear main cap. Are there any horizontal bolts going through the rear plate into the
rear main cap that would require the removal of the engine or transmission for access to them?</span><br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Judging by the condition of the oil pump gears and end plate I do believe that a lot of the lost oil pressure will
be cured by replacing the pump. I have not yet removed the front main cap but the center main shell and crank journal were in pretty good shape with no discoloration, scoring, etc. </span><br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">I'm certainly willing to replace the rod bearings and mains that I can access with the engine/transmission in place
but do not want to pull it or the transmission if possible. I know that best practice would be to replace all mains but if there are such bolts and I choose not to pull the engine or transmission to access them I am making a big mistake by replacing only the
front and center mains?</span><br>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Best--Michael Oritt</span></div>
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