<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">David--</div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">For the reasons you state I have decided not to.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Thanks--Michael Oritt</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 1:24 PM, David Nock BCS <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:healeydoc@sbcglobal.net" target="_blank">healeydoc@sbcglobal.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Century';COLOR:#000000">
<div>The early BN1 motor has two bolt that go thru the rear engine plate into
the rear main cap. If you have installed an aftermarket rear seal kit it is
bolted to the rear main cap. However you are going to create other
problems by removing the front and rear main caps with the engine in place. You
will tear the front and rear engine plate gaskets. The rear one isnt as
much of a problem but I guarantee that the front one will leak when you put it
back together. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>DON’T do it </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Century';COLOR:#000000">David
Nock<br>British Car
Specialists<br><a href="tel:(209)%20948-8767" value="+12099488767" target="_blank">209-948-8767</a><br><a href="http://www.britishcarspecialists.com" target="_blank">www.britishcarspecialists.com</a></div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div style="FONT:10pt tahoma">
<div> </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5">
<div><b>From:</b> <a title="michael.oritt@gmail.com" href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com" target="_blank">Michael Oritt</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, October 03, 2017 8:50 AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="jpaynepbr@cox.net" href="mailto:jpaynepbr@cox.net" target="_blank">Jonas
Payne</a> </div>
<div><b>Cc:</b> <a title="healeys@autox.team.net" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">Austin Healey</a> </div><div><div class="h5">
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In
Situ</div></div></div></div></div>
<div> </div></div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline"><div><div class="h5">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="COLOR:#3333ff">Jonas--</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="COLOR:#3333ff"> </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="COLOR:#3333ff">I'm aware of the bolts for the
front main bearing cap and they are accessible with engine in. lt is the
rear main cap that I am concerned with and while I will take your word that they
existed on the car you reference even if there were not I have decided against
attempting its removal as the chance of damaging the gasket/seal is great.
I'll replace the oil pump and rod bearings--the mains will simply have to live a
bit longer!</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="COLOR:#3333ff"> </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="COLOR:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div>
<div class="gmail_extra">
<div> </div>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 11:38 AM, Jonas Payne <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:jpaynepbr@cox.net" target="_blank">jpaynepbr@cox.net</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT:1ex;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid">
<div lang="EN-US" vlink="#954F72" link="#0563C1">
<div class="m_-6851061479761770063m_-2637471338228351253WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><a name="m_-6851061479761770063_m_-2637471338228351253__MailEndCompose">There were
horizontal bolts front and rear on George McHarris’s 100-4. It precluded an
engine in rebuild.<u></u><u></u></a></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Jonas Payne<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>PBR Consulting Services, LLC<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><a href="tel:(702)%20882-6711" value="+17028826711" target="_blank">702.882.6711</a><u></u><u></u></span></p></div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><u></u><u></u></span> </p><span></span>
<div>
<div style="BORDER-TOP:#e1e1e1 1pt solid;BORDER-RIGHT:medium none;BORDER-BOTTOM:medium none;PADDING-BOTTOM:0in;PADDING-TOP:3pt;PADDING-LEFT:0in;BORDER-LEFT:medium none;PADDING-RIGHT:0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
</b>WILLIAM B LAWRENCE<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 2, 2017 11:11
PM<br><b>To:</b> Michael Oritt <<a href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com" target="_blank">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>>; Austin Healey <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys]
100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ<u></u><u></u></p></div></div>
<div>
<div class="m_-6851061479761770063h5">
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u> </p>
<div id="m_-6851061479761770063m_-2637471338228351253divtagdefaultwrapper">
<p><span style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;COLOR:black">Michael,<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p><span style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;COLOR:black"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p><span style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;COLOR:black">Having recently rebuilt my
engine I can attest that there are no horizontal bolts holding the main caps
to the engine block. What you may be seeing are some of the capscrews that
hold the engine adapter plate in place. You should be able to remove the main
cap after removing those bolts. They are accessible under the timing cover.
Replacement may be a little delicate as that is a gasketed
joint.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p><span style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;COLOR:black"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p><span style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;COLOR:black">Good luck.
<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p><span style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;COLOR:black"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p><span style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;COLOR:black">Bill
Lawrence<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p><span style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;COLOR:black">BN1
#554<u></u><u></u></span></p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="TEXT-ALIGN:center" align="center">
<hr align="center" size="2" width="98%">
</div>
<div id="m_-6851061479761770063m_-2637471338228351253divRplyFwdMsg">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="COLOR:black">From:</span></b><span style="COLOR:black"> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.ne<wbr>t</a>> on behalf of Michael
Oritt <<a href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com" target="_blank">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>><br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, October
1, 2017 5:22:51 PM<br><b>To:</b> Austin Healey<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys]
100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ</span> <u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u> </p></div></div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Verdana",sans-serif;BACKGROUND:#fafafa;COLOR:#333333">Looking
at the exploded view of the bottom end of the 100 engine on page D/224 of the
service manual I see that there are two horizontal bolts that fasten the front
main cap into the block that are, I assume, accessible via the timing cvhanin
cover.</span><span style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Verdana",sans-serif;COLOR:#333333"><br><br><span style="BACKGROUND:#fafafa">I do not see such hole(s) for the rear main cap.
Are there any horizontal bolts going through the rear plate into the rear main
cap that would require the removal of the engine or transmission for access to
them?</span><br><br><span style="BACKGROUND:#fafafa">Judging by the condition
of the oil pump gears and end plate I do believe that a lot of the lost oil
pressure will be cured by replacing the pump. I have not yet removed the front
main cap but the center main shell and crank journal were in pretty good shape
with no discoloration, scoring, etc. </span><br><br><span style="BACKGROUND:#fafafa">I'm certainly willing to replace the rod bearings
and mains that I can access with the engine/transmission in place but do not
want to pull it or the transmission if possible. I know that best practice
would be to replace all mains but if there are such bolts and I choose not to
pull the engine or transmission to access them I am making a big mistake by
replacing only the front and center mains?</span></span><span style="COLOR:#3333ff"><u></u><u></u></span></p></div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="COLOR:#3333ff"><u></u><u></u></span> </p></div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Verdana",sans-serif;BACKGROUND:#fafafa;COLOR:#333333">Best--Michael
Oritt</span><span style="COLOR:#3333ff"><u></u><u></u></span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></blockquote></div>
<div> </div></div>
</div></div><p>
</p><hr>
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