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<p>Likely--they are diodes after all.<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/20/2017 4:26 PM, WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
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<p>Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it.
And you probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at
times. It would work as long as the current was flowing in the
right direction and with enough voltage to turn it on.</p>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Bob
Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"><bspidell@comcast.net></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs</font>
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<p>Thanks, Bill. Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many
hours and it didn't die. Maybe I'm more balanced than I
thought ;)<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
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<p>The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot
side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes
out of balance the current flows from the hot side to
the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the
polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes
which are polarity sensitive and will not function and
will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity.</p>
<p><br>
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<p>Bill Lawrence</p>
<p>BN1 #554</p>
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font
style="font-size:11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif"
color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
on behalf of Bob Spidell
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"><bspidell@comcast.net></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs</font>
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<div class="PlainText">I've got LED backlights in my
instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
<br>
indicator*--and would like to put them in my
running/nav/brake lights. <br>
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found
lots of LED <br>
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my
cars are both pos. <br>
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg.
ground). Anyone <br>
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware
you need to <br>
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid
state flasher.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here? I ran
one for a while <br>
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant
you shouldn't do it<br>
<br>
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