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<p>Thanks, Bill. Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours
and it didn't die. Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;)<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
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<p>The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side
(negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of
balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side
and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as
conditions change. LEDs are diodes which are polarity
sensitive and will not function and will possibly be
destroyed by reversed polarity.</p>
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<p>Bill Lawrence</p>
<p>BN1 #554</p>
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on behalf of
Bob Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"><bspidell@comcast.net></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs</font>
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<div class="PlainText">I've got LED backlights in my
instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
<br>
indicator*--and would like to put them in my
running/nav/brake lights. <br>
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found
lots of LED <br>
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars
are both pos. <br>
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).
Anyone <br>
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you
need to <br>
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state
flasher.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here? I ran one
for a while <br>
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you
shouldn't do it<br>
<br>
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