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<p>Here is what it looks like....air flow over the float bowls is enough to prevent problems.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>George McHarris<br>
</p>
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt;"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request@autox.team.net <healeys-request@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, September 5, 2017 11:00 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 273</font>
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Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle (goldengt)<br>
2. Re: BJ8 Temps (ATIGHTPROD@aol.com)<br>
3. Re: BJ8 Temps (Bob Spidell)<br>
4. Free BJ8 Brake Rotors - SF Bay Area (Bob Spidell)<br>
5. Chassis ID Plate Location (Michael MacLean)<br>
6. Re: Bellows Thermostats (Harold Manifold)<br>
7. Re: Overdrive wiring question (BJ8Healeys)<br>
8. Re: BJ8 Temps (Keith Pennell)<br>
9. Re: BJ8 Temps (Keith Pennell)<br>
10. Shift lever issue (no Healey content) (Michael Oritt)<br>
11. Re: BJ8 Temps (Roger Grace)<br>
12. Re: Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required (Mark Donaldson)<br>
13. Re: Overdrive wiring question (Bob Spidell)<br>
14. engine trouble (Ed O'Neal)<br>
15. Re: 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle (Keith Pennell)<br>
16. Thermostat runs with blanking sleeve<br>
(=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)<br>
17. engine trouble (Ed O'Neal)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2017 11:41:43 -0700<br>
From: goldengt <goldengt@cal.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle<br>
Message-ID: <20170904184149.D24201A0362@mail.cal.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
The painter centered the bonnet in the hole so now the hinges rattle. Stuffing cardboard on each side of the hinge stops the rattle. Any better appearing suggestions? Root cause is bent bonnet remains bent for the time being so that the rubber buffers are not
touching the bonnet.?Ken Freese?65 BJ8<br>
<br>
<br>
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone<br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 2<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:49:45 -0400<br>
From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com<br>
To: roggrace@telus.net, healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
Message-ID: <3cc82.5baa71c4.46defa49@aol.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I have a BN1, so things are a bit different, but temps under the bonnet get <br>
way up there and my front float bowl is directly over my exhaust without a <br>
heat shield. In the past, my car would vapor lock like crazy, the fuel in <br>
the front float bowl boiling away. I was a member of the SoCal Healey club <br>
then and a few of us were having the same problem. Nothing seemed to work. <br>
And then George McHarris came up with the solution. And I followed suit and <br>
haven't had the problem since.<br>
What we did was mount a marine bilge fan along side the upper end of <br>
our radiators. Being it's a DC motor, just wire it so the air flows in the <br>
correct direction and add some 4" flex to both ends. One end goes to right <br>
behind your grill to suck in the cooler air and the other end off the fan <br>
goes to right in front of your carbs. Mine is aimed directly at the front <br>
float bowl. Did this almost ten years ago now and have had zero problems since <br>
with vapor lock. I can sit in traffic and get to 212 and the car still <br>
idles just fine.<br>
I put the fan in place with zip ties, so didn't have to drill any <br>
holes and everything can come out in a matter of minutes if necessary. Got the <br>
fan on eBay under thirty dollars and since it was white, I painted it with <br>
flat black paint. Works like a charm and don't see any reason why this <br>
couldn't be done in a BJ8 engine bay with some minor tweaking of positions of <br>
the fan.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
First temporary installation, wired in place. Blows air right on front <br>
float bowl.<br>
<br>
Switch on shelf to turn on and off when needed. <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
In a message dated 9/4/2017 10:09:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, <br>
roggrace@telus.net writes:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower<br>
ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer <br>
rattles squeaks and groans too !<br>
I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad.<br>
Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is<br>
already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to <br>
increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too <br>
rich for that<br>
ambient.<br>
So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near<br>
the rear carb intake.<br>
<br>
In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec.<br>
rad fan off<br>
Water is 190F<br>
Oil is 165- 170F<br>
Engine compartment is around 130F<br>
<br>
At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic<br>
Water is 200F<br>
Oil is 180 F<br>
Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid<br>
stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path.<br>
<br>
Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet <br>
spot.<br>
So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment <br>
venting <br>
and how ?<br>
Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car.<br>
Ideas comments welcome.<br>
<br>
On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air <br>
to <br>
the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ?<br>
<br>
rg <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 12:37:47 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
Message-ID: <eeae31dd-4f22-8e7d-0757-0d1adf9ce7cb@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
FWIW, I just had the manifolds on my BJ8 Jet-Hot coated and haven't <br>
noticed much, if any, difference in running temps or other effects (I <br>
also wrapped my downpipes).? YMMV.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 9/4/2017 10:05 AM, Al Fuller wrote:<br>
><br>
> Roger:<br>
><br>
> Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to conduct <br>
> the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing the manifolds <br>
> to be their usual heat radiating selves?<br>
><br>
> I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated <br>
> [Jet-Hot, etc.].<br>
><br>
> Al Fuller<br>
><br>
> al at bighealey dot org<br>
><br>
> '65 BJ-8<br>
><br>
> '85 Rx-7<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of
<br>
> *Roger Grace<br>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 4, 2017 10:14 AM<br>
> *To:* Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
><br>
> My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower<br>
><br>
> ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer<br>
><br>
> rattles squeaks and groans too !<br>
><br>
> I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad.<br>
><br>
> Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is<br>
><br>
> already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to<br>
><br>
> increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming <br>
> too rich for that<br>
><br>
> ambient.<br>
><br>
> So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near<br>
><br>
> the rear carb intake.<br>
><br>
> In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? <br>
> elec.<br>
><br>
> rad fan off<br>
><br>
> Water is 190F<br>
><br>
> Oil is 165- 170F<br>
><br>
> Engine compartment is around 130F<br>
><br>
> At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic<br>
><br>
> Water is 200F<br>
><br>
> Oil is 180 F<br>
><br>
> Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid<br>
><br>
> stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path.<br>
><br>
> Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet<br>
><br>
> spot.<br>
><br>
> So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment <br>
> venting<br>
><br>
> and how ?<br>
><br>
> Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car.<br>
><br>
> Ideas comments welcome.<br>
><br>
> On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler <br>
> air to<br>
><br>
> the carb intake area when cruising? ? Results ?<br>
><br>
> rg<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 13:19:44 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Free BJ8 Brake Rotors - SF Bay Area<br>
Message-ID: <e55794f3-6ab4-51be-3091-b871599e61fe@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed<br>
<br>
I have a pair of used but pristine rotors for a (later) BJ8 free for the <br>
taking.? They have surface rust inside the hat, which I neglected to <br>
paint, but the braking surfaces are mirror-smooth and shouldn't need <br>
turning.? The only reason I'm not reusing them is I bought new ones many <br>
years ago and since I'm putting in new bearings and pads--which I also <br>
bought years ago--I figured I'd use the new rotors while I'm at it.<br>
<br>
Pick up only.? I'm in San Jose near 280 and Saratoga.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 20:44:46 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis ID Plate Location<br>
Message-ID: <587540249.2648095.1504557886348@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Can someone give me an approximate measurement to locate the two holes for the chassis ID Plate on my BN2? ?I guess they were filled in during the body work. ?I have to have a chassis plate on it to show the DMV.Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android<br>
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Message: 6<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:36:44 -0700<br>
From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold@telus.net><br>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats<br>
Message-ID: <39F9E2562CE345CB8BBAF1D65785A86C@AllInOne><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Thank-you all for the good suggestions. I am planning to try this Robertshaw<br>
thermostat and will keep you apprised of developments.<br>
<br>
FlowKooler 330-180 - FlowKooler Robertshaw Series High Performance<br>
Thermostats<br>
<br>
<br>
_____ <br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Bob<br>
Spidell<br>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 10:22 AM<br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Slightly OT, but I think we owe Moss--in particular, Michael Grant, who I<br>
believe writes most of them--some gratitude for producing these tech tip<br>
docs. They have really helped me out several times; I just found one that<br>
explains an ingenious--one of those techniques that has you slapping your<br>
forehead because you didn't think of it--way to set the 'steady posts' in<br>
drum brakes correctly.<br>
<br>
If you make a phone order from Moss you might mention how helpful they are,<br>
so they keep them coming.<br>
<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 9/3/2017 11:19 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
Hey Harold - <br>
<br>
With the bellows type thermostat, your car will definitely heat up faster<br>
and run cooler, but the bellows type isn't ideal because when it fails, it<br>
fails in the closed position.<br>
<br>
Here's a good article explaining which type you want. Moss 434-155 is a<br>
better unit, but only available in 160 deg (I think). For six cylinder cars<br>
160 deg thermostat is good enough for most climates south of the mason dixon<br>
line.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/434-155.pdf">http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/434-155.pdf</a><br>
<br>
Best,<br>
<br>
Alan<br>
<br>
On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 12:16 AM, Harold Manifold <manifold@telus.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
Hello,<br>
<br>
I am in the process of putting my AH 3000 engine back together and went<br>
looking for a recommendation for the engine thermostat. I was expecting to<br>
find a recommendation for the opening temperature but instead found<br>
information that recommends a bellows type thermostat should be used and the<br>
bellows is important or some of the coolant can bypass the radiator when the<br>
thermostat opens. If a bellows type thermostat is recommended is the correct<br>
type either the Smiths 85025 series or the AC Delco TF series? Is there a<br>
modern replacement bellows type thermostat that fails in the open position?<br>
<br>
Your comments and insight is welcomed.<br>
<br>
Harold<br>
<br>
1960 BT7<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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Message: 7<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 18:15:54 -0400<br>
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com><br>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question<br>
Message-ID: <00e901d325cb$624e3e00$26eaba00$@rr.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
The manual says:<br>
<br>
"Connect a low-consumption test lamp (a 12 volt 2.2 watt fascia panel light bulb is suitable) [I made a test lamp out of a single filament turn signal bulb and a spare bulb holder I had lying around] between the top terminal "A" (Fig. G.13)[of the throttle
switch] and a convenient earthing point.<br>
<br>
The bulb should light when the overdrive and the ignition are both switched on, and the gear lever is set in the third or top gear position.<br>
<br>
When the overdrive is switched off, the bulb should remain alight with the throttle still closed.<br>
<br>
Progressively open the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal until the light goes out. Check the position of the throttle opening when this occurs: it should be one-fifth open. This position of the throttle has been reached when a 3/16 in. (5 mm.)
diameter rod can be just passed between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever on the HD type of carburetter, or when a feeler gauge of 0.048 in. (1.22 mm.) thickness can be inserted between the throttle stop screw and the stop on the H4 type of carburetter
used on earlier engines."<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
The manual procedure would account for any system slack, but it also requires two people: one to operate the pedal and another to monitor the light and check the position of the throttle plates when it goes out. It would also require access to the throttle
plates, and an estimate of what is "one fifth open". If that is related to the 3/16" rod, then why not just use the rod and adjust until the light goes out?
<br>
<br>
I have an "overdrive warning" light just above the dash switch that I installed back in the '80s when I didn't mind drilling a new hole in the dash. When the switch is adjusted properly, the light stays on when the dash switch is turned off and then goes off
with what seems to me a reasonable movement of the pedal. I would say it isn't necessary to account for slack in the system when using the 3/16" rod.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Steve Byers<br>
<br>
HBJ8L/36666<br>
<br>
BJ8 Registry<br>
<br>
AHCA Delegate at Large<br>
<br>
Havelock, NC <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell<br>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 1:14 PM<br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the way I interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch with the throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve mentions--opened. For some reason, I thought this should be achieved by
pressing on the accelerator pedal to achieve this setting which, of course, would pull up any slack in the Rube Goldberg throttle mechanism. So, I set it this way but felt that it required too much pedal when disengaging the OD. I just fiddled with the adjustment
to where the OD disengaged with what I felt was appropriate pedal. Maybe the 3/16" should be measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe not; does anyone know for sure?<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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Message: 8<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 19:04:52 -0400<br>
From: Keith Pennell <llennep@verizon.net><br>
To: roggrace@telus.net, healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
Message-ID: <15e4f23b1a9-c09-3d4d4@webjas-vac211.srv.aolmail.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net><br>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 2:39 pm<br>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower<br>
ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer <br>
rattles squeaks and groans too !<br>
I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad.<br>
Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is<br>
already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to <br>
increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that<br>
ambient.<br>
So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near<br>
the rear carb intake.<br>
<br>
In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec.<br>
rad fan off<br>
Water is 190F<br>
Oil is 165- 170F<br>
Engine compartment is around 130F<br>
<br>
At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic<br>
Water is 200F<br>
Oil is 180 F<br>
Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid<br>
stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path.<br>
<br>
Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet <br>
spot.<br>
So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting <br>
and how ?<br>
Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car.<br>
Ideas comments welcome.<br>
<br>
On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to <br>
the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ?<br>
<br>
rg <br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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<br>
Message: 9<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 19:07:18 -0400<br>
From: Keith Pennell <llennep@verizon.net><br>
To: roggrace@telus.net, healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
Message-ID: <15e4f25eb2f-c0e-38a9d@webjas-vab201.srv.aolmail.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
<br>
Roger,<br>
<br>
I seem to have similar effects of T on running of my BJ8. Went out recently and car ran great for 10 miles then the rest of the trip not so much. I woud be in interested in what you come up with.<br>
<br>
Keith<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net><br>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 2:39 pm<br>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower<br>
ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer <br>
rattles squeaks and groans too !<br>
I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad.<br>
Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is<br>
already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to <br>
increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that<br>
ambient.<br>
So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near<br>
the rear carb intake.<br>
<br>
In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec.<br>
rad fan off<br>
Water is 190F<br>
Oil is 165- 170F<br>
Engine compartment is around 130F<br>
<br>
At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic<br>
Water is 200F<br>
Oil is 180 F<br>
Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid<br>
stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path.<br>
<br>
Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet <br>
spot.<br>
So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting <br>
and how ?<br>
Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car.<br>
Ideas comments welcome.<br>
<br>
On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to <br>
the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ?<br>
<br>
rg <br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br>
Message: 10<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 20:52:08 -0400<br>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Shift lever issue (no Healey content)<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAPTa0B43Z7R7ujXGpRguR8DPiCoMYvumxgawpmGqFVUaDD9UUQ@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
During today's last session at the LRPHF the gear gear shift lever broke at<br>
the point where the threading for the knob stops. The threads on the lever<br>
accepted an MG shift knob which I believe to be 5/16"-24 UNF. The lever is<br>
about 1/2" in diameter and it is still long enough to use with a new knob.<br>
<br>
>From the standpoint of strength would I be better off turning it down to<br>
3/8" fine thread or through-drilling a small hole in it and attaching a<br>
knob via a roll pin?<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt<br>
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<br>
Message: 11<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 17:54:54 -0700<br>
From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net><br>
To: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>, "'Healey List'"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
Message-ID: <8FEAA310BE8845DF987C5D293C87E1AD@WINDOWST93OFP9><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I have Maniflo headers from the UK that have had ceramic coated that is supposed to contain the heat ?<br>
<br>
From: Al Fuller <br>
Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 10:05 AM<br>
To: 'Healey List' <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
<br>
Roger:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to conduct the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing the manifolds to be their usual heat radiating selves?<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated [Jet-Hot, etc.].<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Al Fuller<br>
<br>
al at bighealey dot org<br>
<br>
'65 BJ-8<br>
<br>
'85 Rx-7<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Roger Grace<br>
Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 10:14 AM<br>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower<br>
<br>
ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer <br>
<br>
rattles squeaks and groans too !<br>
<br>
I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad.<br>
<br>
Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is<br>
<br>
already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to <br>
<br>
increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that<br>
<br>
ambient.<br>
<br>
So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near<br>
<br>
the rear carb intake.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec.<br>
<br>
rad fan off<br>
<br>
Water is 190F<br>
<br>
Oil is 165- 170F<br>
<br>
Engine compartment is around 130F<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic<br>
<br>
Water is 200F<br>
<br>
Oil is 180 F<br>
<br>
Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid<br>
<br>
stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet <br>
<br>
spot.<br>
<br>
So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting <br>
<br>
and how ?<br>
<br>
Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car.<br>
<br>
Ideas comments welcome.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to <br>
<br>
the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ?<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
rg <br>
<br>
<br>
Virus-free. <a href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a> <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
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<br>
Message: 12<br>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 14:38:56 +1200<br>
From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz><br>
To: "'Earl Kagna'" <kags@shaw.ca>, "'Michael Salter'"<br>
<michael.salter@gmail.com>, "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required<br>
Message-ID: <E68602492DA54A0DAC39F7CFCECB0D61@MarkPC><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Nell's black tri-carb - HBT7L/17600 - January 1962 - has the later type solenoid (with the metal holding strap) also. The car is very original.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Mark<br>
<br>
Ardmore, NZ<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_____ <br>
<br>
From: Earl Kagna [<a href="mailto:kags@shaw.ca">mailto:kags@shaw.ca</a>] <br>
Sent: Tuesday, 5 September 2017 6:32 a.m.<br>
To: Michael Salter; Healey List<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Hmmm!<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
My 1962 tri-carb # 18617 ? May 1962 - has the later type solenoid. I am virtually certain that it is the original ? I am the 2nd owner, bought the car with some 45,000 miles on it approx 24 years ago. The entire car is very, very, original.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
It could be that the later solenoid start point was at the BJ7 introduction, which was before this car was built. Which would mean that all top shift tri?carbs (both BT and BN7?s) would have the late type solenoid.
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Interesting stuff!<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Earl Kagna<br>
Victoria, B.C.<br>
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Michael <<a href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com">mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com</a>> Salter
<br>
<br>
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 9:14 AM<br>
<br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <br>
<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks to all who responded to this question. <br>
<br>
It seems likely that the early cast body solenoids were fitted until the end of "roadster" production.
<br>
<br>
If anyone has a pre '63 car that has an original pressed steel solenoid I would appreciate hearing from you.<br>
<br>
Michael S <br>
<br>
_____ <br>
<br>
From: Harold Manifold <manifold@telus.net><br>
Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 12:21:42 PM<br>
To: 'Michael Salter'<br>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Michael,<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I am sending a picture of the starter solenoid from my AH 3000. I have replaced the solenoid in the picture but I believe it to be the original solenoid. It has the cast aluminum body but I could not see any part numbers. This is the car it was removed from:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
AH 3000 Mk 1 BT7<br>
<br>
Chassis number 13154<br>
<br>
Date of build Oct 28 - Nov 2 1960<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have a question. Are bellows type thermostats still available and can you suggest a source?<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Harold<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_____ <br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Michael Salter<br>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:31 PM<br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required<br>
<br>
?Oh wise ones!!!<br>
<br>
I'm working on the revisions to the Concours Guidelines for 2018 and have a ?question that some of you may be able to help with.<br>
<br>
Prior to about 1958 the starter solenoid used in Healeys was Lucas part number 76411. This type of solenoid can easily be identified by having a cast aluminum body as on the left on the pic attached.
<br>
<br>
Later cars and all subsequent Lucas replacements had a pressed steel body as illustrated on the right.<br>
<br>
The change point is not noted in any of the parts books that I have. <br>
<br>
If anyone has an original car with its original solenoid from around that date I would appreciate hearing from you with the serial number of your car and the solenoid type fitted.<br>
<br>
Michael Salter<br>
<br>
Concours Guidelines Editor.<br>
<br>
_____ <br>
<br>
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Message: 13<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 21:38:50 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question<br>
Message-ID: <c331c000-8a13-9a1c-9527-47ccf5634251@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
I used the ol' 2x4 braced against the pedal to get the nominal setting <br>
(but I thought it required too much pedal and the OD didn't always <br>
deactivate when I assumed it would).? I think it's a bit of personal <br>
preference; I adjusted mine so just a quarter of a clutch pedal and a <br>
quick blip--less than a downshift--would disengage the OD.? Done just <br>
right, it's smoother than my best downshift, so I gotta believe it's OK <br>
on the internals.? This OD has almost 200K miles and the only problems <br>
(2) I've had with it were electrical.<br>
<br>
Anyway, glad it's in the manual; I was beginning to wonder ...<br>
<br>
<br>
On 9/4/2017 3:15 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote:<br>
><br>
> The manual says:<br>
><br>
> "Connect a low-consumption test lamp (a 12 volt 2.2 watt fascia panel <br>
> light bulb is suitable) [I made a test lamp out of a single filament <br>
> turn signal bulb and a spare bulb holder I had lying around] between <br>
> the top terminal "A" (Fig. G.13)[of the throttle switch] and a <br>
> convenient earthing point.<br>
><br>
> ? The bulb should light when the overdrive and the ignition are both <br>
> switched on, and the gear lever is set in the third or top gear position.<br>
><br>
> ? When the overdrive is switched off, the bulb should remain alight <br>
> with the throttle still closed.<br>
><br>
> ? Progressively open the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal <br>
> until the light goes out. Check the position of the throttle opening <br>
> when this occurs:? it should be one-fifth open.? This position of the <br>
> throttle has been reached when a 3/16 in. (5 mm.) diameter rod can be <br>
> just passed between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever on the <br>
> HD type of carburetter, or when a feeler gauge of 0.048 in. (1.22 mm.) <br>
> thickness can be inserted between the throttle stop screw and the stop <br>
> on the H4 type of carburetter used on earlier engines."<br>
><br>
> The manual procedure would account for any system slack, but it also <br>
> requires two people:? one to operate the pedal and another to monitor <br>
> the light and check the position of the throttle plates when it goes <br>
> out. It would also require access to the throttle plates, and an <br>
> estimate of what is "one fifth open".? If that is related to the 3/16" <br>
> rod, then why not just use the rod and adjust until the light goes out?<br>
><br>
> I have an "overdrive warning" light just above the dash switch that I <br>
> installed back in the '80s when I didn't mind drilling a new hole in <br>
> the dash.? When the switch is adjusted properly, the light stays on <br>
> when the dash switch is turned off and then goes off with what seems <br>
> to me a reasonable movement of the pedal.? I would say it isn't <br>
> necessary to account for slack in the system when using the 3/16" rod.<br>
><br>
> Steve Byers<br>
><br>
> HBJ8L/36666<br>
><br>
> BJ8 Registry<br>
><br>
> AHCA Delegate at Large<br>
><br>
> Havelock, NC<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of
<br>
> *Bob Spidell<br>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 04, 2017 1:14 PM<br>
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question<br>
><br>
> I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the way I <br>
> interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch with the <br>
> throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve mentions--opened.? <br>
> For some reason, I thought this should be achieved by pressing on the <br>
> accelerator pedal to achieve this setting which, of course, would pull <br>
> up any slack in the Rube Goldberg throttle mechanism.? So, I set it <br>
> this way but felt that it required too much pedal when disengaging the <br>
> OD.? I just fiddled with the adjustment to where the OD disengaged <br>
> with what I felt was appropriate pedal.? Maybe the 3/16" should be <br>
> measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe not; does anyone <br>
> know for sure?<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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Message: 14<br>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 13:34:16 +0000<br>
From: Ed O'Neal <Ed@wadsworthoneal.com><br>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Cc: "Robert P. Manhart" <manhart8660@comcast.net>, Al Jensen<br>
<a13seabee@aol.com><br>
Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BAEC@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Gentlemen,<br>
<br>
The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to start, but finally started. On the road test, the engine would not rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM - light bucking and missing.
I have checked ignition - dwell & timing and fuel seems OK. Almost feels like the mechanical advance is stuck. But I'm stalled. Anyone had a similar problem ???<br>
<br>
Ed O'Neal<br>
<br>
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Message: 15<br>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 10:24:32 -0400<br>
From: Keith Pennell <llennep@verizon.net><br>
To: goldengt@cal.net, healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle<br>
Message-ID: <15e526da718-c0b-3fa55@webjas-vad044.srv.aolmail.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
<br>
Ken,<br>
<br>
I once had pix before the H drive crash but all I can do now is tell you about them. Don't know how married you are to concourse but I put about 10" lengths of the boot seal for MGB at each corner of opening. No rattle and looks fine.<br>
<br>
Keith<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: goldengt <goldengt@cal.net><br>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 8:39 pm<br>
Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
The painter centered the bonnet in the hole so now the hinges rattle. Stuffing cardboard on each side of the hinge stops the rattle. Any better appearing suggestions? Root cause is bent bonnet remains bent for the time being so that the rubber buffers are not
touching the bonnet. <br>
Ken Freese <br>
65 BJ8<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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Message: 16<br>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2017 07:09:17 -0800<br>
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat runs with blanking sleeve<br>
Message-ID: <20170905150917.23716.qmail@hoster902.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
You can run the Moss blanking sleeve with a thermostat. <br>
<br>
I had cut away the blanking sleeve except for the part necessary to cover the bypass port. I ran it with a 180 degree fail-open thermostat and 2 Moss rubber gaskets, one of which had the hole slightly enlarged to accommodate the increased thickness of the thermo
plus blanking sleeve. <br>
<br>
Separately I had bought the BCS 160 degree robertshaw with soldered ring blanking sleeve. I modified this by replacing the t-stat with a 180 degree robertshaw with their ring soldered on. I'm now using that because the robertshaw has a much larger opening than
the Moss fail-open.<br>
<br>
<br>
>><<br>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:19:19 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
To: "rchaskell@earthlink.net" <rchaskell@earthlink.net>, Per<br>
Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>, Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats<br>
Message-ID: <175035024.2445102.1504534759562@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
The blanking sleeve has a small lip that sits in the same recess as the thermostat. ?Not sure both the blanking sleeve lip and a thermostat together will fit and seal the cover correctly.Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android<br>
<br>
On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 7:07 AM, Bob Haskell<rchaskell@earthlink.net> wrote: Moss sells a thermostat bypass blanking sleeve.<br>
<a href="http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=69821">http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=69821</a><br>
<br>
I wonder if you could combine this with a "standard" thermostat to<br>
approach the original with the sleeve?<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
AHCA 3000 MkI registrar<br>
<a href="http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php">http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php</a><br>
<br>
<<><br>
<br>
-- <br>
Steve Gerow<br>
Altadena, CA<br>
BN6 / 4whl discs<br>
Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 17<br>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 17:53:10 +0000<br>
From: Ed O'Neal <Ed@wadsworthoneal.com><br>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Cc: "Robert P. Manhart" <manhart8660@comcast.net>, Al Jensen<br>
<a13seabee@aol.com><br>
Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BB3D@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
OK. Full tank of non-ethanol gas. Replaced the fuel filter & fuel pump, cleaned the carb inlet screens and checked the float valves. All new copper fuel lines about two years ago - SAME PROBLEM.<br>
<br>
WHAT NOW ???<br>
<br>
Gentlemen,<br>
<br>
The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to start, but finally started. On the road test, the engine would not rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM - light bucking and missing.
I have checked ignition - dwell & timing and fuel seems OK. Almost feels like the mechanical advance is stuck. But I'm stalled. Anyone had a similar problem ???<br>
<br>
Ed O'Neal<br>
<br>
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End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 273<br>
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