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<p>I used the ol' 2x4 braced against the pedal to get the nominal
setting (but I thought it required too much pedal and the OD
didn't always deactivate when I assumed it would). I think it's a
bit of personal preference; I adjusted mine so just a quarter of a
clutch pedal and a quick blip--less than a downshift--would
disengage the OD. Done just right, it's smoother than my best
downshift, so I gotta believe it's OK on the internals. This OD
has almost 200K miles and the only problems (2) I've had with it
were electrical.</p>
<p>Anyway, glad it's in the manual; I was beginning to wonder ... <br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/4/2017 3:15 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060">The manual says:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060">"Connect a low-consumption test lamp
(a 12 volt 2.2 watt fascia panel light bulb is suitable) [I
made a test lamp out of a single filament turn signal bulb
and a spare bulb holder I had lying around] between the top
terminal "A" (Fig. G.13)[of the throttle switch] and a
convenient earthing point.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060"> The bulb should light when the
overdrive and the ignition are both switched on, and the
gear lever is set in the third or top gear position.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060"> When the overdrive is switched
off, the bulb should remain alight with the throttle still
closed.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060"> Progressively open the throttle by
means of the accelerator pedal until the light goes out.
Check the position of the throttle opening when this
occurs: it should be one-fifth open. This position of the
throttle has been reached when a 3/16 in. (5 mm.) diameter
rod can be just passed between the throttle stop screw and
the stop lever on the HD type of carburetter, or when a
feeler gauge of 0.048 in. (1.22 mm.) thickness can be
inserted between the throttle stop screw and the stop on the
H4 type of carburetter used on earlier engines."<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060">The manual procedure would account
for any system slack, but it also requires two people: one
to operate the pedal and another to monitor the light and
check the position of the throttle plates when it goes out.
It would also require access to the throttle plates, and an
estimate of what is "one fifth open". If that is related to
the 3/16" rod, then why not just use the rod and adjust
until the light goes out? <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060">I have an "overdrive warning" light
just above the dash switch that I installed back in the '80s
when I didn't mind drilling a new hole in the dash. When
the switch is adjusted properly, the light stays on when the
dash switch is turned off and then goes off with what seems
to me a reasonable movement of the pedal. I would say it
isn't necessary to account for slack in the system when
using the 3/16" rod.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060">Steve Byers</span><span
style="color:#002060"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060">HBJ8L/36666</span><span
style="color:#002060"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060">BJ8 Registry</span><span
style="color:#002060"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060">AHCA Delegate at Large</span><span
style="color:#002060"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060">Havelock, NC </span><span
style="color:#002060"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#002060"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans
MS";color:#002060"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext">
Healeys [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On
Behalf Of </b>Bob Spidell<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 04, 2017 1:14 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p>I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the
way I interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch
with the throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve
mentions--opened. For some reason, I thought this should be
achieved by pressing on the accelerator pedal to achieve this
setting which, of course, would pull up any slack in the Rube
Goldberg throttle mechanism. So, I set it this way but felt
that it required too much pedal when disengaging the OD. I
just fiddled with the adjustment to where the OD disengaged
with what I felt was appropriate pedal. Maybe the 3/16"
should be measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe
not; does anyone know for sure?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>Bob<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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