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<p>Had an issue with my OD not disengaging years ago...switched to Redline 75/90 Gear oil....no problems since.<br>
</p>
George Mcharris<br>
<br>
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt;"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request@autox.team.net <healeys-request@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, August 9, 2017 11:00 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 240</font>
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Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Re: I really need some pictures. (David Porter)<br>
2. Russ Thompson (Michael MacLean)<br>
3. Wheel Spinners (Roger Grace)<br>
4. Re: Tyre Pressures (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)<br>
5. Re: Russ Thompson (HealeyRick)<br>
6. Re: Russ Thompson (Harold Manifold)<br>
7. Re: Tyre Pressures (Tim Ward)<br>
8. Re: Wheel Spinners (Per Schoerner)<br>
9. Re: Wheel Spinners (Peter & Veronica)<br>
10. Re: Tyre Pressures (Oudesluys)<br>
11. Re: Russ Thompson (Charlie Baldwin)<br>
12. Re: Russ Thompson (Michael MacLean)<br>
13. Re: Russ Thompson (Ed O'Neal)<br>
14. Re: Russ Thompson (Randy Hicks)<br>
15. Re: Russ Thompson (Bruce Steele)<br>
16. Re: Tyre Pressures (Roger Grace)<br>
17. Re: Russ Thompson (Bob Spidell)<br>
18. Re: Wheel Spinners (Roger Grace)<br>
19. Tyre Pressure Gauges; was Re: Tyre Pressures (Bob Spidell)<br>
20. Re: Russ Thompson (Bob Spidell)<br>
21. Re: Russ Thompson (David Nock BCS)<br>
22. Re: Wheel Spinners (Richard J. Hockert)<br>
23. Re: I really need some pictures. (David Porter)<br>
24. Re: Russ Thompson (Roger Grace)<br>
25. Re: Tyre Pressures (Oudesluys)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 13:50:57 -0600<br>
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com><br>
To: Randall Hicks <healey100m@me.com>, healeys<br>
<Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I really need some pictures.<br>
Message-ID: <b037cb2d-f05f-1a36-aca9-fa210149beb1@porterscustom.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed<br>
<br>
<a id="LPlnk490920" href="http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/" previewremoved="true">http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/</a>
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<a id="LPUrlAnchor_15023422037210.35685646324139303" style="text-decoration: none;" href="http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/" target="_blank">Finished complete new interior for a BN1</a></div>
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healeyspecialists.com</div>
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Austin Healey 100. A major undertaking, especially when making it right. I made my own correct patterns for the seat covers, which were sent to England and sewn there.</div>
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<p></p>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/8/2017 12:15 PM, Randall Hicks wrote:<br>
> Dave, can you post the photo you got?<br>
><br>
> Randy<br>
><br>
>> On Aug 8, 2017, at 10:34 AM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> the<br>
><br>
<br>
-- <br>
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM <br>
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world <a id="LPlnk849208" href="http://www.porterbikes.com/" previewremoved="true">
www.porterbikes.com/</a><br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 2<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 00:47:08 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
???? Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission.? It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again.? Good
thing I took this precaution.? Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked.? Today he showed me the accumulator piston.? The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil.? Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph
overdrive.? There was a huge spring below it.? Anyone heard of this?? He said engagement will be real positive now.? Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced.? The other two were fine and will be re-used.? All the gears
showed very little sign of wear.? The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine.? Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.???? I know I am going to start a dis<br>
cussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission.? Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is?<br>
Mike MacLean<br>
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Message: 3<br>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 18:05:19 -0700<br>
From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net><br>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners<br>
Message-ID: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front.<br>
Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy.<br>
When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet.<br>
After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over.<br>
It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside.<br>
What gives ?<br>
Anyone else encountered this issue ?<br>
rg<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 01:42:58 +0000<br>
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK@msn.com><br>
To: Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com>, "josef-eckert@t-online.de"<br>
<josef-eckert@t-online.de>, "'Healeys, Forum'"<br>
<Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<MWHPR19MB1118AA390966DAABC30CF08BA58B0@MWHPR19MB1118.namprd19.prod.outlook.com><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI.<br>
<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
<br>
________________________________<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com><br>
Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM<br>
To: josef-eckert@t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum'<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation<br>
<br>
Tim<br>
<br>
From: josef-eckert@t-online.de [<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de</a>]<br>
Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44<br>
To: Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com>; Healeys, Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
<br>
Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Josef Eckert<br>
<br>
K?nigswinter/Germany<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original-Nachricht-----<br>
<br>
Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200<br>
<br>
Von: "Tim Ward" <timwarduk@aol.com<mailto:timwarduk@aol.com>><br>
<br>
An: "healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:healeys@autox.team.net>><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
[cid:image001.gif@01D30EA4.886BFC00]<br>
Hi<br>
Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways.<br>
<br>
So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads.<br>
<br>
Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads.<br>
<br>
I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H<br>
<br>
As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom<br>
<br>
Many thanks<br>
<br>
Tim<br>
BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige<br>
<br>
Tim Ward<br>
Warwick House<br>
12 Mill Road<br>
Kislingbury<br>
NN7 4BB<br>
Tel: 07855 388 751<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/">http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/</a><br>
<a href="http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php">http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php</a><br>
<br>
?<br>
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Message: 5<br>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 22:00:38 -0400<br>
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAGfzsZd8LNCKqeEt53APFBq2+8P7TphzSTCXBjEAFLfGNOnh2g@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I wouldn't use synthetic in a Healey transmission. I'd go with a 30 wt<br>
non-detergent dinosaur oil. Non-detergent so metal particles can fall to<br>
the bottom of the tranny. Take a look here:<br>
<a href="http://www.mgtoronto.com/pdf/Tech/Overdrive_oil.pdf">http://www.mgtoronto.com/pdf/Tech/Overdrive_oil.pdf</a><br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
Rick Neville<br>
<br>
On Tue, Aug 8, 2017 at 8:47 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
> Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in<br>
> Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage<br>
> (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and<br>
> not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution.<br>
> Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he<br>
> showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored<br>
> from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston<br>
> from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard<br>
> of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low<br>
> mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other<br>
> two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign<br>
> of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can<br>
> be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train<br>
> is the car.<br>
> I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using<br>
> 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL<br>
> is?<br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 20:24:01 -0700<br>
From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold@telus.net><br>
To: "'Michael MacLean'" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, "'Healey List'"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <C0B0D3204F1A4357ADD0F375C93DFADF@AllInOne><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Mike,<br>
<br>
I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive<br>
background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive completely<br>
rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the recommended oil for the<br>
transmission. The original Healey manuals are not consistent either, the<br>
shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey service bulletins from the day<br>
recommend 30W. Coming up with the right oil is further complicated by the<br>
design of a Healey transmission which is two different transmissions with a<br>
common oil system. One transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro<br>
rings that are not compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants<br>
and the other is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement<br>
but these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use:<br>
<br>
1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals used<br>
in older transmissions.<br>
2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level of EP<br>
protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications.<br>
3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was<br>
recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50.<br>
<br>
The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear oil.<br>
Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90<br>
GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the Red Line but both<br>
should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives are not compatible with<br>
brass. I looked into why Austin switched their recommended oil from 20W50 to<br>
30W and concluded it was for a lower viscosity at lower temperatures i.e.<br>
when the transmission is cold. Viscosity is another important consideration.<br>
70W-90 GL4 has the same viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a<br>
better low temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with<br>
Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest<br>
openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but that is<br>
evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have heard Red Line<br>
MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil.<br>
<br>
For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine oils<br>
and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared by looking<br>
at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve.<br>
<br>
I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I<br>
recommend you reach your own conclusion.<br>
<br>
Harold<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_____ <br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Michael<br>
MacLean<br>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM<br>
To: Healey List<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
<br>
<br>
Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in<br>
Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage<br>
(10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and<br>
not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution.<br>
Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed<br>
me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt<br>
or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph<br>
overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He<br>
said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the<br>
number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine<br>
and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The<br>
reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and<br>
it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.<br>
I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt<br>
motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is?<br>
<br>
Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 7<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 09:33:06 +0100<br>
From: "Tim Ward" <timwarduk@aol.com><br>
To: "'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'" <YNOTINK@msn.com>,<br>
<josef-eckert@t-online.de>, "'Healeys, Forum'"<br>
<Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
Message-ID: <007801d310ea$216a90a0$643fb1e0$@aol.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily accessible<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
All the best<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Tim<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [<a href="mailto:YNOTINK@msn.com">mailto:YNOTINK@msn.com</a>]
<br>
Sent: 09 August 2017 02:43<br>
To: Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com>; josef-eckert@t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' <Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
<br>
_____ <br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> > on behalf of Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com <<a href="mailto:timwarduk@aol.com">mailto:timwarduk@aol.com</a>> ><br>
Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM<br>
To: josef-eckert@t-online.de <<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de</a>> ; 'Healeys, Forum'<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Tim<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: josef-eckert@t-online.de <<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de</a>> [<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de</a>]
<br>
Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44<br>
To: Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com <<a href="mailto:timwarduk@aol.com">mailto:timwarduk@aol.com</a>> >; Healeys, Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net</a>> ><br>
Subject: Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Josef Eckert<br>
<br>
K?nigswinter/Germany<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original-Nachricht-----<br>
<br>
Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200<br>
<br>
Von: "Tim Ward" <timwarduk@aol.com <<a href="mailto:timwarduk@aol.com">mailto:timwarduk@aol.com</a>> ><br>
<br>
An: "healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>> " <healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>> ><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Hi<br>
<br>
Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Many thanks<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Tim<br>
<br>
BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Tim Ward<br>
<br>
Warwick House<br>
<br>
12 Mill Road<br>
<br>
Kislingbury<br>
<br>
NN7 4BB<br>
<br>
Tel: 07855 388 751<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/">http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/</a><br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php">http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
?<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 8<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 10:38:46 +0200<br>
From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se><br>
To: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net><br>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners<br>
Message-ID: <67F1802F-611F-466B-AB6A-88F755E5919A@schoerner.se><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Hi<br>
Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that.<br>
<br>
Per<br>
<br>
Skickat fr?n min iPhone<br>
<br>
> 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>:<br>
> <br>
> On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front.<br>
> Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy.<br>
> When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet.<br>
> After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over.<br>
> It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside.<br>
> What gives ?<br>
> Anyone else encountered this issue ?<br>
> rg<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
> <br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
> <br>
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> <br>
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<br>
Message: 9<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 20:07:00 +1000<br>
From: "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au><br>
To: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net><br>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners<br>
Message-ID: <8CA5B07BE233440895482F03E1826328@Notebook><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
...you're probably not tightening them enough in the first place & they're just doing what they're supposed to. I give mine a hell of a lot more than a couple of light taps!<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
<br>
Peter<br>
<br>
From: Per Schoerner <br>
Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 6:38 PM<br>
To: Roger Grace <br>
Cc: Healey List <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners<br>
<br>
Hi<br>
Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that.<br>
<br>
Per<br>
<br>
Skickat fr?n min iPhone<br>
<br>
9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>:<br>
<br>
<br>
On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front.<br>
Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy.<br>
When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet.<br>
After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over.<br>
It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside.<br>
What gives ?<br>
Anyone else encountered this issue ?<br>
rg<br>
<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 10<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:29:15 +0200<br>
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
Message-ID: <40cc0ed0-81d1-007d-7003-916dcc0a41d5@chello.nl><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, <br>
but when you need it the battery is usually flat.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward:<br>
><br>
> Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily accessible<br>
><br>
> All the best<br>
><br>
> Tim<br>
><br>
> *From:*WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [<a href="mailto:YNOTINK@msn.com">mailto:YNOTINK@msn.com</a>]<br>
> *Sent:* 09 August 2017 02:43<br>
> *To:* Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com>; josef-eckert@t-online.de; <br>
> 'Healeys, Forum' <Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
><br>
> Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI.<br>
><br>
> Bill Lawrence<br>
><br>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net <br>
> <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>> on behalf of Tim Ward
<br>
> <timwarduk@aol.com <<a href="mailto:timwarduk@aol.com">mailto:timwarduk@aol.com</a>>><br>
> *Sent:* Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM<br>
> *To:* josef-eckert@t-online.de <<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de</a>>;
<br>
> 'Healeys, Forum'<br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
><br>
> Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your <br>
> confirmation<br>
><br>
> Tim<br>
><br>
> *From:*josef-eckert@t-online.de <<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de</a>>
<br>
> [<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de</a>]<br>
> *Sent:* 06 August 2017 12:44<br>
> *To:* Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com <<a href="mailto:timwarduk@aol.com">mailto:timwarduk@aol.com</a>>>;
<br>
> Healeys, Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net</a>>><br>
> *Subject:* Tyre Pressures<br>
><br>
> Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine.<br>
><br>
> Josef Eckert<br>
><br>
> K?nigswinter/Germany<br>
><br>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----<br>
><br>
> Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
><br>
> Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200<br>
><br>
> Von: "Tim Ward" <timwarduk@aol.com <<a href="mailto:timwarduk@aol.com">mailto:timwarduk@aol.com</a>>><br>
><br>
> An: "healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>>"
<br>
> <healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>>><br>
><br>
> Hi<br>
><br>
> Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the <br>
> Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on <br>
> Motorways.<br>
><br>
> So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads.<br>
><br>
> Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the <br>
> different roads.<br>
><br>
> I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres <br>
> 185/70, HR15, 89H<br>
><br>
> As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom<br>
><br>
> Many thanks<br>
><br>
> Tim<br>
><br>
> BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige<br>
><br>
> Tim Ward<br>
><br>
> Warwick House<br>
><br>
> 12 Mill Road<br>
><br>
> Kislingbury<br>
><br>
> NN7 4BB<br>
><br>
> Tel: 07855 388 751<br>
><br>
> <a href="http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/">http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/</a><br>
><br>
> <a href="http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php">http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php</a><br>
><br>
> ?<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl">
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><br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 11<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 07:44:05 -0400<br>
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <dbd29c13-7ece-f700-d08f-e6ca2003a1ff@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Mike,<br>
<br>
You have probably stepped in it by getting an oil discussion started again.<br>
<br>
But to answer your question without adding my opinion to it, I believe <br>
that when someone on the list contacted Red Line, they recommended <br>
MT-90, which from memory is 40 wt. Check Red Line's website: <br>
<a href="https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7">https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7</a><br>
<br>
They make a good argument for using a gear rated oil in a transmission <br>
as Harold also outlines below. As he mentions and we have discussed <br>
previously, it seems that the synthetic transmission oils do leak a bit <br>
more.<br>
<br>
Charlie<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/8/2017 11:24 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:<br>
> Mike,<br>
> I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive <br>
> background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive <br>
> completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the <br>
> recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are <br>
> not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey <br>
> service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right <br>
> oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission <br>
> which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One <br>
> transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not <br>
> compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other <br>
> is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but <br>
> these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use:<br>
> 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals <br>
> used in older transmissions.<br>
> 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level <br>
> of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications.<br>
> 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was <br>
> recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50.<br>
> The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear <br>
> oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil <br>
> Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the <br>
> Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives <br>
> are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their <br>
> recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower <br>
> viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. <br>
> Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same <br>
> viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low <br>
> temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil <br>
> Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest <br>
> openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but <br>
> that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have <br>
> heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil.<br>
> For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine <br>
> oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared <br>
> by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve.<br>
> I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I <br>
> recommend you reach your own conclusion.<br>
> Harold<br>
><br>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
> *From:* Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of
<br>
> *Michael MacLean<br>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM<br>
> *To:* Healey List<br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
><br>
> Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in <br>
> Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low <br>
> mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to <br>
> put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took <br>
> this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have <br>
> worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller <br>
> center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced <br>
> it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge <br>
> spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be <br>
> real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro <br>
> was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be <br>
> re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse <br>
> gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and <br>
> it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.<br>
> I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using <br>
> 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline <br>
> MTL is?<br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
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Message: 12<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:51:04 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
To: "mgcharlie@comcast.net" <mgcharlie@comcast.net>,<br>
"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <521187565.311679.1502283064107@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
If I do use a synthetic oil the leaks may not be a big problem since it has been put back together with all new gaskets. ?I hope.Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android <br>
<br>
On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 5:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin<mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote: _______________________________________________<br>
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Message: 13<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:58:42 +0000<br>
From: Ed O'Neal <Ed@wadsworthoneal.com><br>
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, Healey List<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B08408@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Mike,<br>
<br>
The original OD design used a 1 ?? accumulator piston with a concentric double spring. This configuration was used in a lot of different vehicles including the Triumphs. Donald Healey didn?t like how the OD engaged harshly when the clutch was not used during
the shift. He changed the design to incorporate a sleeve fitted in the 1 ?? bore with a smaller 1 1/8? accumulator piston inside of the sleeve and a single spring. This gave a slower engagement much like a modern automatic transmission. However, as the
OD wears the internal leakage increases and the OD will engage very slowly or not at all. Using the larger accumulator is a good idea (in my opinion) and will delay the point when internal leakage causes a problem.<br>
<br>
Ed<br>
<br>
ed@wadsworthoneal.com<mailto:ed@wadsworthoneal.com><br>
<br>
Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte.<br>
Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc.<br>
6418 Commerce Park Drive<br>
Fort Myers, Florida 33966<br>
phone: (239) 245-8728<br>
cell: (239) 410-6174<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean<br>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:47 PM<br>
To: Healey List<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
<br>
Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good
thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph
overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears
showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.<br>
I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is?<br>
Mike MacLean<br>
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<br>
Message: 14<br>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2017 09:15:22 -0400<br>
From: Randy Hicks <healey100m@me.com><br>
To: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net><br>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <3958C78D-F21E-495C-916C-7A0D5732A748@me.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I have used Redline MT-90 in both 100M's and BJ8 transmissions for 8 - 10 years now exclusively.<br>
<br>
6 trips across the USA and Canada, 80,000+ miles. Another one in September.<br>
<br>
No issues at all. Nice smooth shifting. MTL is thinner and tends to leak more out of the 100?s tranny.<br>
<br>
Highly recommend. <br>
<br>
Randy<br>
<br>
Randy Hicks<br>
<a href="http://www.austinhealey100m.com">www.austinhealey100m.com</a><br>
'56 100 M White/Black<br>
'56 100 M Florida Green/OEW<br>
'65 BJ8<br>
'53 MGTD<br>
'77 450 SL<br>
Healey100M@me.com<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
> On Aug 9, 2017, at 7:44 AM, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Mike,<br>
> <br>
> You have probably stepped in it by getting an oil discussion started again. <br>
> But to answer your question without adding my opinion to it, I believe that when someone on the list contacted Red Line, they recommended MT-90, which from memory is 40 wt. Check Red Line's website:
<a href="https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7">https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7</a> <<a href="https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7">https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7</a>><br>
> They make a good argument for using a gear rated oil in a transmission as Harold also outlines below. As he mentions and we have discussed previously, it seems that the synthetic transmission oils do leak a bit more.<br>
> <br>
> Charlie<br>
> <br>
> On 8/8/2017 11:24 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:<br>
>> Mike,<br>
>> <br>
>> I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey
manuals are not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission which is two different transmissions
with a common oil system. One transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but these are the steps
I went through to select the oil I would use:<br>
>> <br>
>> 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals used in older transmissions.<br>
>> 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications.<br>
>> 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50.<br>
>> <br>
>> The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5
as the additives are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. Viscosity is another important consideration.
70W-90 GL4 has the same viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest openings and cracks and the transmission
may leak a little more but that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil.<br>
>> <br>
>> For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve.<br>
>> <br>
>> I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I recommend you reach your own conclusion.<br>
>> <br>
>> Harold<br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> From: Healeys [<a href=""></a>mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean<br>
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM<br>
>> To: Healey List<br>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
>> <br>
>> Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good
thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph
overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears
showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.<br>
>> I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is?<br>
>> Mike MacLean<br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 15<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 07:28:50 -0700<br>
From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com><br>
To: "'Michael MacLean'" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, "'Healey List'"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <0d3601d3111b$d24fca30$76ef5e90$@roadrunner.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I?ve always run 30W non-detergent, but I?m trying the 40W Russ put in. I asked Russ about it, and he said he?s always used 40W. Given temperature is not a factor in So Cal, the thicker oil may perform a bit better in the heat here.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bruce Steele<br>
<br>
Brea, CA<br>
<br>
1960 BN7<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean<br>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM<br>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good
thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph
overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears
showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.<br>
<br>
I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is?<br>
<br>
Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 16<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:03:04 -0700<br>
From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net><br>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>, "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
Message-ID: <E9FBD04811AD49AC8EB90D1CE9D127C0@WINDOWST93OFP9><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Being an anal pia about measurement errors, I imported a PCL Accura-1 digital gauge; it even comes with a calibration certificate and I am not kidding !!<br>
rg<br>
<br>
<a href="https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/tyre-inflation-equipment/handheld-tyre-inflators/accura-1-tyre-inflators/">https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/tyre-inflation-equipment/handheld-tyre-inflators/accura-1-tyre-inflators/</a><br>
<br>
<br>
From: Oudesluys <br>
Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 3:29 AM<br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, but when you need it the battery is usually flat.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward:<br>
<br>
Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily accessible<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
All the best<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Tim<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [<a href="mailto:YNOTINK@msn.com">mailto:YNOTINK@msn.com</a>]
<br>
Sent: 09 August 2017 02:43<br>
To: Tim Ward <a href="mailto:timwarduk@aol.com">mailto:timwarduk@aol.com</a>; josef-eckert@t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum'
<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com><br>
Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM<br>
To: josef-eckert@t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum'<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Tim<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: josef-eckert@t-online.de [<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de</a>]
<br>
Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44<br>
To: Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com>; Healeys, Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Josef Eckert<br>
<br>
K?nigswinter/Germany<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original-Nachricht-----<br>
<br>
Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
<br>
Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200<br>
<br>
Von: "Tim Ward" <timwarduk@aol.com><br>
<br>
An: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Hi<br>
<br>
Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Many thanks<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Tim<br>
<br>
BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Tim Ward<br>
<br>
Warwick House<br>
<br>
12 Mill Road<br>
<br>
Kislingbury<br>
<br>
NN7 4BB<br>
<br>
Tel: 07855 388 751<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/">http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/</a><br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php">http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
?<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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Message: 17<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:06:43 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <86624dd0-197b-ee2c-ba2d-36a315a9e7cb@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Ah, one of our favorite 'religious topics.'<br>
<br>
FWIW, I've used MT-90 for many years and probably at least 60,000 miles <br>
and swear by it (I ought to keep track of this, but record-keeping is <br>
not my strong suit). I never bought the 'use non-detergent oil so the <br>
sludge can build up in the bottom of the case' theory (anybody want <br>
'sludge' in their arteries?). Unless you constantly grind gears there <br>
shouldn't be a lot of loose metal in a gearbox/OD (IMO). When I do <br>
change out the Redline the only metal particles in the oil are extremely <br>
finely ground particles--you can't feel them if you rub the oil between <br>
your fingers--of what appears to be brass (you can only see the <br>
particles in bright sunlight). I presume the brass is from the shifting <br>
forks wearing down; I expect using synthetic oil mitigates--but can't <br>
eliminate--that. My OD screen with magnets never has anything <br>
appreciable on it, and when I had the gearbox out the bottom and side <br>
walls were spotless. A lot of greases--e.g. molybdenum and lithium--are <br>
finely ground soft metals suspended in oil, and brass is a soft metal.<br>
<br>
I used 20W-50 dino oil for a few years/thousand miles but tried the <br>
Redline hoping to get a little quicker engagement from a hot OD. I <br>
wasn't expecting it, so no confirmation bias, but I swear the gearbox <br>
shifts smoother*. Yeah, it's harder to contain but that's a small price <br>
to pay IMO. I've gone through the gearbox once already, and will be <br>
doing so again soon, and the gears appear perfect so either type of oil <br>
is good as far as lubricating properties. My OD has almost 200K miles <br>
on it and while I have it out I'll probably check the accumulator rings <br>
and bore, and the pump, and as I already have a new one I might change <br>
the solenoid, but on the advice of this list I'll otherwise leave it <br>
alone. I use MT-90 in my BJ8 and BN2, and Redline gear oil in both <br>
(75W-90 in the BN2, and 75W-110 in the BJ8, which quiets a mild whine a <br>
bit). I'm contemplating going to a synthetic oil in the BJ8 engine <br>
eventually as the PCV has all but eliminated the leak from the rear 'seal.'<br>
<br>
Like our cars, most of us were 'manufactured' in the 50s and 60s; if you <br>
follow the 'use what the factory recommended in 1959' trope we should <br>
only allow doctors to treat us with medicines and surgical techniques <br>
available then (no arthroscopic surgery for you). Lubricants have come <br>
a long way in the last 60 years (one possible exception is the <br>
reduction/elimination of ZDDP in engine oil, but we have plenty of <br>
alternatives and I think we all appreciate cleaner air).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
* When I bought my Mustang GT, I thought the shifting action was rough <br>
and 'notchy.' I checked the Mustang forums, and got a recommendation to <br>
use synthetic gearbox oil, specifically Royal Purple Synchromax (the oil <br>
recommended by Ford is actually an ATF). Sure enough, the shifting <br>
action improved and, supposedly, the RP 'conditions' the gearbox over <br>
time so it keeps improving. I can't prove that, but I don't dispute it <br>
either.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/8/2017 8:24 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:<br>
> Mike,<br>
> I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive <br>
> background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive <br>
> completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the <br>
> recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are <br>
> not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey <br>
> service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right <br>
> oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission <br>
> which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One <br>
> transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not <br>
> compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other <br>
> is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but <br>
> these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use:<br>
> 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals <br>
> used in older transmissions.<br>
> 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level <br>
> of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications.<br>
> 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was <br>
> recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50.<br>
> The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear <br>
> oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil <br>
> Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the <br>
> Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives <br>
> are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their <br>
> recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower <br>
> viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. <br>
> Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same <br>
> viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low <br>
> temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil <br>
> Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest <br>
> openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but <br>
> that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have <br>
> heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil.<br>
> For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine <br>
> oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared <br>
> by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve.<br>
> I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I <br>
> recommend you reach your own conclusion.<br>
> Harold<br>
><br>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
> *From:* Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of
<br>
> *Michael MacLean<br>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM<br>
> *To:* Healey List<br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
><br>
> Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in <br>
> Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low <br>
> mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to <br>
> put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took <br>
> this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have <br>
> worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller <br>
> center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced <br>
> it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge <br>
> spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be <br>
> real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro <br>
> was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be <br>
> re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse <br>
> gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and <br>
> it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.<br>
> I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using <br>
> 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline <br>
> MTL is?<br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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Message: 18<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:06:40 -0700<br>
From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net><br>
To: "Roland Wilhelmy" <sentenac.rw@gmail.com>, "Healey List"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners<br>
Message-ID: <2942679C68B24FAB9DF3D9706CC29F88@WINDOWST93OFP9><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Yes that is what I do, and meant by a few light taps compared to the 8-10 slogs needed to loosen them.<br>
<br>
From: Roland Wilhelmy <br>
Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:50 PM<br>
To: Roger Grace <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners<br>
<br>
Short answer: No. How did you come to think that a couple of light taps were all that was needed to hold your wheel secure? Hit them with your mallet until they stop turning. But before that, make sure that you have lifted the wheel? up and into full engagement
with the hub before lowering the wheel enough to keep it from turning when you hit the knock off. Turn the knock off as far as you can by hand rocking the wheel in a couple of directions while trying to turn the knock off. Only then put a load on the wheel.
It is time to worry when your knockoffs Loosen. Your car is just trying to keep you alive, Roger<br>
-RolandSent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.From: Roger Grace<br>
Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:05 PM<br>
To: Healey List<br>
Reply To: Roger Grace<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners <br>
<br>
<br>
On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front.<br>
Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy.<br>
When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet.<br>
After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over.<br>
It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside.<br>
What gives ?<br>
Anyone else encountered this issue ?<br>
rg<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Virus-free. <a href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a> <br>
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Message: 19<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:16:51 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressure Gauges; was Re: Tyre Pressures<br>
Message-ID: <966d5fe0-c59b-95fa-955d-2edf9739a859@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
I like this one:<br>
<br>
<a href="https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080QHMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1">https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080QHMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a><br>
<br>
Accuracy is claimed to be +/- 0.05 PSI; but as they only read to nearest <br>
0.5 PSI I think that's a typo. They feel a little flimsy but so far <br>
have held up, and the large LED display helps my old eyes.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/9/2017 3:29 AM, Oudesluys wrote:<br>
> Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, <br>
> but when you need it the battery is usually flat.<br>
> Kees Oudesluijs<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward:<br>
>><br>
>> Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily <br>
>> accessible<br>
>><br>
>> All the best<br>
>><br>
>> Tim<br>
>><br>
<br>
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Message: 20<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:25:09 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <ba3e62cb-1c7f-8f99-52bc-f5e33752b389@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Good info! Just how much harsher is engagement with the larger <br>
accumulator? As one who always tries to shift as smoothly as <br>
possible--without slipping the clutch much, if any--is engagement so <br>
harsh as to require a slip of the clutch which, of course, will <br>
contribute to clutch wear? If clutch isn't used, is engagement so harsh <br>
as to be a 'shock' to the drivetrain; i.e. U-joints, splines, <br>
differential gears?<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
On 8/9/2017 5:58 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote:<br>
><br>
> Mike,<br>
><br>
> The original OD design used a 1 ?? accumulator piston with a <br>
> concentric double spring. This configuration was used in a lot of <br>
> different vehicles including the Triumphs. Donald Healey didn?t like <br>
> how the OD engaged harshly when the clutch was not used during the <br>
> shift. He changed the design to incorporate a sleeve fitted in the 1 <br>
> ?? bore with a smaller 1 1/8? accumulator piston inside of the sleeve <br>
> and a single spring. This gave a slower engagement much like a modern <br>
> automatic transmission. However, as the OD wears the internal leakage <br>
> increases and the OD will engage very slowly or not at all. Using <br>
> the larger accumulator is a good idea (in my opinion) and will delay <br>
> the point when internal leakage causes a problem.<br>
><br>
> Ed<br>
><br>
> ed@wadsworthoneal.com <<a href="mailto:ed@wadsworthoneal.com">mailto:ed@wadsworthoneal.com</a>><br>
><br>
> Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte.<br>
><br>
> Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc.<br>
><br>
> 6418 Commerce Park Drive<br>
><br>
> Fort Myers, Florida 33966<br>
><br>
> phone: (239) 245-8728<br>
><br>
> cell: (239) 410-6174<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of
<br>
> *Michael MacLean<br>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:47 PM<br>
> *To:* Healey List<br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
><br>
> Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in <br>
> Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low <br>
> mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to <br>
> put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took <br>
> this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have <br>
> worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller <br>
> center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced <br>
> it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge <br>
> spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be <br>
> real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro <br>
> was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be <br>
> re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse <br>
> gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and <br>
> it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.<br>
><br>
> I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends <br>
> using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight <br>
> Redline MTL is?<br>
><br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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Message: 21<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:38:24 -0700<br>
From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net><br>
To: "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, "Healey List"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <38F4AFA240014D04BAE158E9F3070451@DavidNockHP><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
We have rebuilt 100s of Healey transmissions over the years and they all get the same basic parts no matter what. Why would you spend that much money and the labor to remove and install the transmission and try and save $150.00 and not replace two syncro rings.
We always rebuild both the transmission and overdrive, replace all bearings, seals and syncros in the transmission. The overdrive always gets new bearings, accumulator and piston. The larger piston is a nice upgrade but it will go into overdrive very strongly,
there is not slow engagment of the overdrive.<br>
<br>
If you use the Red Line oil you MUST seal the bell housing bolts with copper washers and thread sealer. They go into the transmission and are exposed to the oil. If you use a synthetic oil it WILL leak past the threads unless sealed. The Red Line MTL is a
75/80 wt gear oil which is the same viscosity as a 30 wt non detergent engine oil which is the recomeneded oil.<br>
<br>
We have been using the Red Line MTL in all the British transmissions for many years Healeys, MGs, Triumphs and Jaguars. We have found that the all shift smoother. We have had a couple of MGs that were hard shifting and simply changed the fluid to the Red Line
MTL and solved the problem.<br>
<br>
I would not recommend using thou if you havent rebuilt and sealed the transmission because it WILL leak.
<br>
<br>
David Nock<br>
British Car Specialists<br>
209-948-8767<br>
<a href="http://www.britishcarspecialists.com">www.britishcarspecialists.com</a><br>
<br>
From: Michael MacLean <br>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM<br>
To: Healey List <br>
Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
<br>
Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good
thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph
overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears
showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.<br>
I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is?<br>
<br>
Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
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Message: 22<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 10:49:01 -0500<br>
From: "Richard J. Hockert" <rjhco@att.net><br>
To: Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au><br>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners<br>
Message-ID: <7A13BCF0-934E-416E-87C7-847D048B1A31@att.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I have same issue. Make sure to adequately grease the hubs. Self tighten a lot especially when driving hard.<br>
<br>
Best regards,<br>
Jim<br>
<br>
> On Aug 9, 2017, at 5:07 AM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> ...you're probably not tightening them enough in the first place & they're just doing what they're supposed to. I give mine a hell of a lot more than a couple of light taps!<br>
> <br>
> Cheers<br>
> <br>
> Peter<br>
> <br>
> From: Per Schoerner<br>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 6:38 PM<br>
> To: Roger Grace<br>
> Cc: Healey List<br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners<br>
> <br>
> Hi<br>
> Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that.<br>
> <br>
> Per<br>
> <br>
> Skickat fr?n min iPhone<br>
> <br>
>> 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>:<br>
>> <br>
>> On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front.<br>
>> Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy.<br>
>> When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet.<br>
>> After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over.<br>
>> It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside.<br>
>> What gives ?<br>
>> Anyone else encountered this issue ?<br>
>> rg<br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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Message: 23<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 10:01:05 -0600<br>
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com><br>
To: "S. Carr" <britfan1@epix.net>, "healeys@autox team. net"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I really need some pictures.<br>
Message-ID: <6a3d9a0c-4117-960b-f6ad-9d55edb7f9a0@porterscustom.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed<br>
<br>
Well.... After studying a dozen good pictures, it is clear that the top <br>
in the Boras Motor website ( <br>
<a href="http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/">http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/</a> )
<br>
is not the Robins top that we get from Moss. The Boras header wrap is <br>
sans the secondary flap and it seems might be more prone to allow water <br>
to enter. Again the pictures just aren't conclusive. I had it done <br>
(almost) as the pixs Dave Nock sent, then decided to try the Boras <br>
method and it requires folding the flap back on top of itself in a way <br>
that just doesn't seem logical, given the Brits love of simplicity.. <br>
back to the drawing board.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/8/2017 8:50 AM, S. Carr wrote:<br>
> I'm sure Dave isn't the only one who'd find those photos useful -- I <br>
> certainly could use them too!<br>
><br>
> Sarah Carr<br>
> BN1 (still under restoration) in PA<br>
><br>
> -----Original Message----- From: David Porter<br>
> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2017 8:04 PM<br>
> To: healeys@autox team. net<br>
> Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures.<br>
><br>
> Despite the excellent Moment/Anderson restoration guide there are no <br>
> usable pictures of how the 100 convertible top is attached with the <br>
> secondary flap at the header.<br>
> Can someone send me a few close ups of the way it should be.<br>
> Thanks!<br>
> Dave<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
-- <br>
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM <br>
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world <a href="http://www.porterbikes.com/">www.porterbikes.com/</a><br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 24<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 09:14:32 -0700<br>
From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net><br>
To: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>, "'Michael MacLean'"<br>
<rrengineer.mike@att.net>, "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
Message-ID: <893F4C07C0794E4A8968EA8D1C266A63@WINDOWST93OFP9><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Well me, plus 2 others that I know of, had very bad foaming with 30 wt non detergent oil in AH transmission; Castrol does not recommend this oil for transmissions.<br>
Have some pix if anyone is interested.<br>
rg<br>
<br>
From: Bruce Steele <br>
Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 7:28 AM<br>
To: 'Michael MacLean' ; 'Healey List' <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
<br>
I?ve always run 30W non-detergent, but I?m trying the 40W Russ put in. I asked Russ about it, and he said he?s always used 40W. Given temperature is not a factor in So Cal, the thicker oil may perform a bit better in the heat here.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bruce Steele<br>
<br>
Brea, CA<br>
<br>
1960 BN7<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean<br>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM<br>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good
thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph
overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears
showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.<br>
<br>
I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is?<br>
<br>
Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
<br>
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Message: 25<br>
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 18:20:33 +0200<br>
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl><br>
To: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>, healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
Message-ID: <7e285479-2767-83a5-05bb-11fc986048c6@chello.nl><br>
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PCL has always been a top brand, even their rudimentary analogue pencil <br>
gauges were decent.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 9-8-2017 om 17:03 schreef Roger Grace:<br>
> Being an anal pia about measurement errors, I imported a PCL Accura-1 <br>
> digital gauge; it even comes with a calibration certificate and I am <br>
> not kidding !!<br>
> rg<br>
> <a href="https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/tyre-inflation-equipment/handheld-tyre-inflators/accura-1-tyre-inflators/">
https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/tyre-inflation-equipment/handheld-tyre-inflators/accura-1-tyre-inflators/</a><br>
> *From:* Oudesluys<br>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 9, 2017 3:29 AM<br>
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
> Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, <br>
> but when you need it the battery is usually flat.<br>
> Kees Oudesluijs<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward:<br>
>><br>
>> Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily <br>
>> accessible<br>
>><br>
>> All the best<br>
>><br>
>> Tim<br>
>><br>
>> *From:*WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [<a href="mailto:YNOTINK@msn.com">mailto:YNOTINK@msn.com</a>]<br>
>> *Sent:* 09 August 2017 02:43<br>
>> *To:* Tim Ward <a href="mailto:timwarduk@aol.com">mailto:timwarduk@aol.com</a>; josef-eckert@t-online.de;
<br>
>> 'Healeys, Forum' <a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
>><br>
>> Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI.<br>
>><br>
>> Bill Lawrence<br>
>><br>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
>><br>
>> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim Ward <br>
>> <timwarduk@aol.com><br>
>> *Sent:* Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM<br>
>> *To:* josef-eckert@t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum'<br>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
>><br>
>> Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your <br>
>> confirmation<br>
>><br>
>> Tim<br>
>><br>
>> *From:*josef-eckert@t-online.de [<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de</a>]<br>
>> *Sent:* 06 August 2017 12:44<br>
>> *To:* Tim Ward <timwarduk@aol.com>; Healeys, Forum <br>
>> <Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
>> *Subject:* Tyre Pressures<br>
>><br>
>> Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine.<br>
>><br>
>> Josef Eckert<br>
>><br>
>> K?nigswinter/Germany<br>
>><br>
>> -----Original-Nachricht-----<br>
>><br>
>> Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures<br>
>><br>
>> Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200<br>
>><br>
>> Von: "Tim Ward" <timwarduk@aol.com><br>
>><br>
>> An: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
>><br>
>> Hi<br>
>><br>
>> Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in <br>
>> the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly <br>
>> on Motorways.<br>
>><br>
>> So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads.<br>
>><br>
>> Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the <br>
>> different roads.<br>
>><br>
>> I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein <br>
>> Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H<br>
>><br>
>> As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom<br>
>><br>
>> Many thanks<br>
>><br>
>> Tim<br>
>><br>
>> BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige<br>
>><br>
>> Tim Ward<br>
>><br>
>> Warwick House<br>
>><br>
>> 12 Mill Road<br>
>><br>
>> Kislingbury<br>
>><br>
>> NN7 4BB<br>
>><br>
>> Tel: 07855 388 751<br>
>><br>
>> <a href="http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/">http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/</a><br>
>><br>
>> <a href="http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php">http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php</a><br>
>><br>
>> ?<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
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