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<p>This is pretty difficult repair and would need some good expertise with aluminum welding.
<br>
</p>
<p>One has to start with solid metal, as someone already alluded to in a previous post and cut it back until you are on solid and clean metal. Then I'd contact the following place and have them make me the shroud repair edge;</p>
<p>davehardwick.co.uk they make fantastic panels and all sort of needed Healey sheet metal and they fabricate it in-house with proper tooling.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Jean<br>
</p>
<br>
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of A H List <austinhealeyslist@gmail.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> July 8, 2017 3:15 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Mike Tobin<br>
<b>Cc:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.</font>
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<div class="PlainText">Hi Mike,<br>
<br>
A very common problem there. I had to cut the entire lip off and have<br>
another one fashioned and welded back on. TIG welding with a foot<br>
pedal is the easiest, however it will crack if not done properly. The<br>
old metal doesn't like being welded due to contaminants and corrosion<br>
so be prepared to cut it right back to solid metal and fab up patches.<br>
Wire brush the old metal with a stainless brush or wire wheel till<br>
there is no more corrosion visible. Weld a little, brush a little,<br>
weld... brush... weld. The contamination will come out constantly with<br>
the heat of welding and if it is too much it will affect the weld<br>
strength.<br>
<br>
A "Power File" is your best friend for working with ali.<br>
<br>
It seems to work best welding downwards and allowing the pool to sag<br>
down while filling it up with filler wire. Then turn it over and<br>
grind/brush out any impurities from the seam and weld from the back<br>
side over where you just welded to ensure it is uniform. The old metal<br>
won't pool nicely like fresh metal- or at least I haven't found a way<br>
of getting it to. If there is a line visible on the back side of the<br>
weld, it will crack there as soon as you dress down the front side. A<br>
bit of practice on old metal will go a long way.<br>
<br>
I never got good enough at controlling the heat with a MIG on thin<br>
material and ended up just blowing holes in it.<br>
<br>
Andy.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 7/8/17, Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's<br>
> the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's<br>
> how I'm approaching the restoration.<br>
> I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud<br>
> with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the<br>
> hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to<br>
> use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from<br>
> corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not.<br>
><br>
><br>
> I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered<br>
> on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with<br>
> the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds<br>
> showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the<br>
> contour..<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Cheers and Thanks Again,<br>
> Mike Tobin<br>
> Townsend, Montana<br>
><br>
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