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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'>Many of you weighed in last January when I posted my question on keeping the rear shocks tight. A machinist friend manufactured the mounting plates based on the attached drawing. He also CNC machined 3/8” thick hardened steel “spacer/washers” that I used between the shock body ears and the lock washers. He charged me $100 for his work, which took him a couple of hours (I supplied the stock). Special thanks to Michael Salter and Larry Varley for the ideas, and Ian Hey, who was the source of the drawing. I didn’t drive the car much between then and when I pulled the engine last November, but the bolts stayed tight. Nonetheless, I decided to take advantage of having things apart now and upgraded to Grade 10 socket head bolts (5/16” hex key) from the Grade 8 button head bolts I first used, and added a locking nut on the back side of the threaded plate. The 5/16” socket head allows for better torque with an Allen wrench, which is necessary on the rear bolts due to interference from the shock arm. The front bolts can be tightened with a hex key socket on a long extension. Thought I’d share a photo of the final assembly. So far, so good. Thanks, guys!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Bruce Steele<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Brea, CA<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>1960 BN7<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bruce Steele<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, January 03, 2016 4:09 PM<br><b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'>Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight. They work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my annual maintenance. I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washers. Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better) than the grade 8. Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about them on this list. They loosened more quickly than split washers. Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than split washers. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'>Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Bruce Steele<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Brea, CA<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>1960 BN7<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>