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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Forget Evans, expensive and no real
      advantages except that it won't boil when the engine overheats
      although this allows you to enter the danger zone. Cooling
      efficiency is far less than cheap premix coolant which can be
      topped up with water in an emergency. And when the coolant boils,
      you know instantly the engine overheats!!<br>
      Be careful though with the modern non (less) toxic red coolant in
      older engines. It may cause havoc with seals and gaskets and
      should only be used in modern cars. Use the (slightly) more toxic
      blue or green variant which is safe for older classic engines.<br>
      You cannot cure cooling problem by using Evans. You will have to
      find the cause and rectify it.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 4-4-2017 om 3:27 schreef Earl Kagna:<br>
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          <div>Bruce:</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>My experience with Evans coolant:  We decided to install
            it after the engine was completely rebuilt in conjunction
            with a full restoration.  (BJ8).  We felt that it was an
            opportune time to do it was with a completely dry cooling
            system..  So naturally what happened within the first 200
            miles – a failed lower rad hose – brand new, and a kevlar
            one at that.  Not the coolant’s fault, but it illustrated an
            important objection to the stuff – the cost of replacing the
            amount that was lost, approx. half, which I did.</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>Ran it until a couple of months ago when we had to get
            into the engine again to make some ‘corrections’, so about 4
            years total.  I decided to go back to regular antifreeze /
            water coolant.  (I used the less toxic polypropylene
            stuff).  The Evans has to be thoroughly cleaned out of the
            system with a good proper flush when doing this.</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>The engine ran fine with the Evans in it – no overheating
            problems, no bad smells, no difficulties.  The big advantage
            is that it simply won’t boil, even if it gets very hot.  In
            my opinion, he best thing that can be done for a big Healey
            cooling system is to use a more efficient radiator core –
            either re-core an original radiator, or get a new aluminum
            radiator – I’m told that the Wizard works very well by
            people who know Healeys.</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>My advice – stay with regular coolant, the Evans simply
            isn’t worth it.</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>Earl Kagna<br>
            Victoria, B.C.<br>
            BJ8, BT7 tri-carb</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>
            <div><b>From:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                title="healeybruce@roadrunner.com"
                href="mailto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com">Bruce Steele</a>
            </div>
            <div>
              <div>
                <div><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, April 02, 2017 5:53 PM</div>
                <div><b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                    title="healeys@autox.team.net"
                    href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">'Healey List'</a>
                </div>
                <div><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant</div>
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              <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Anyone using Evans Waterless
                  Coolant?  If so, how is it working for you?</span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span></span> </p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Bruce Steele</span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Brea, CA</span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span>1960 BN7</span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
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