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<p>Bob,</p>
<p>No these boxes are not sealed, they have three prongs, two at one end and one at the other that hold the cover in place. As Bruce Steele, I had done an article on these a while ago for Healey Marque, and I have done about a dozen of these and they are still
working well and the outside liiks original.</p>
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<p>Jean<br>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> February 22, 2017 4:39 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box</font>
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<p>Are these boxes sealed? We got into ours from a BN2, and had to drill out a couple spot welds.
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<p>After installing a new harness, the turn indicators didn't function properly. 'Assuming' the problem was in the relay box, we opened it up only to find out later the harness had a couple wires mislabeled (wrong color/trace). This really pissed me off as
otherwise I had the harness wired 100% correct (not to mention 'violating' an original flasher box).</p>
<p>Bob<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/22/2017 8:04 AM, i erbs wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get it out and I
would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Ira Erbs
<div>Portland,OR</div>
<div><span style=""> _______ _______</span><br style="">
<span style=""> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)</span><br style="">
<span style=""> (_________________________)</span></div>
<div> BT7 engine and disk brakes</div>
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<div><span style="">A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti</span><br>
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<div>Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words</div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele <span dir="ltr">
<<a href="mailto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com" target="_blank">healeybruce@roadrunner.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Simon, I’ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long thin flat blade screwdriver,
loosen the terminals one at a time. I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically “trained” to lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first. Ira’s right—seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything
is really clean! Remove the bottom screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them from the front, and there probably isn’t, you can drill them out through the captive nuts
in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the
unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1 screw—I’m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it will work fine and is much
easier than trying to go in from the front.</span><span style=""></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Bruce Steele</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Brea, CA</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">1960 BN7</span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>i erbs<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Simon Lachlan <<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Pierre Henri Claret <<a href="mailto:yosmovies@hotmail.fr" target="_blank">yosmovies@hotmail.fr</a>>; Healey List <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box</span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the extensions</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read.</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Ira Erbs</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Portland,OR</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"> _______ _______<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"> BT7 engine and disk brakes</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.5pt; font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif; color:#333333">A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti</span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan <<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>> wrote:</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD ’64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in
the way, plus its pipework and the steering column…..or is that a bit lower?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact….</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Thanks,</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon</span></p>
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