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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=white lang=EN-GB link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext;mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Coincidentally, I tried to send this before, but it came bouncing back….”too many recipients” or some such…<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext;mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>With reference to ratios and Gary’s(?) comment:-<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext;mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext;mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I’ve got a 3:54 diff and a 28% overdrive in my MkII BT7. Yes, it’s a 3000 but I get the impression that there’s still plenty of spare oomph, if you see what I mean. One just uses different gears/ratios. I drove it pretty much non-stop from one end of France to the other on their Autoroute system. Ideal. (Well, I stopped for petrol once or twice!) And for fun on our narrow Devon roads, I’m in 3<sup>rd</sup> when you regularly ratioed guys would be in 3<sup>rd</sup>, overdrive or 4<sup>th</sup> which is practically the same anyhow.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext;mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I was unlucky enough to destroy my original 22%OD somehow – I don’t know how – and had to have it rebuilt. (Replaced would be more like it.) Anyhow, since the cost was the same, I went for 28%. My point being that it was an opportunity and I took it. Had the opportunity not have arisen, I would never even have contemplated going from 22 to 28.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext;mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext;mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext;mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext'> Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob Spidell<br><b>Sent:</b> 21 February 2017 16:23<br><b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p>I have std. 4.1 in my 100M--it definitely gets off the line well--and I put a Lempert gearset in my BJ8. The M isn't comfortable to drive much over 70MPH, and I generally observe the 4K RPM 'red line' for the 100s--crank failures can happen above that--but it's a hoot driving the mountainous roads around the SF Bay Area. The BJ8 is the better touring car, but it does take some finessing to get it off the line (surprisingly, dumping the clutch relatively quickly but smoothly works the best, but sometimes I have to slip the clutch more than I like).<o:p></o:p></p><p>I think a 3.9 might work well for an 'all-around' car, since the taller OD helps for cruising, but if you're looking at mostly highway miles the 3.54 would be the way to go. I remember Gary Anderson (I think) once saying a 3.54 with the 28% OD might be the best arrangement of all, but you'll lose some quickness.<o:p></o:p></p><p>Bob<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>