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<p>I think that back in the day not everyone had a timing light so the manufacturers used static timing because that was a good starting point to fine tune the engine. You could then get closer to the optimum by ear.</p>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, February 11, 2017 9:32:59 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Oudesluys<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Austin Healey<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor</font>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) timing when the car is running. Since the amount of centrifugal advance
is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial static timing is? </div>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set total timing at 3000 rpms's.</div>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is.</div>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:02 AM, Oudesluys <span dir="ltr">
<<a href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl" target="_blank">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div class="m_8965605833904058135moz-cite-prefix">Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the
ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing dynamically.
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Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get damaged if left on for a long time.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
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Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">We’re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive earth BJ8.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The timing may be all to hell. I’m in the UK; the car’s in Paris.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Let’s say that the clamp bolts “may somehow have got loosened” during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day.
</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">(Yes, it’s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the boot when the car was delivered.)</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now, I’ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I’ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static timed. Another source implies that all EI’s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil’s primary connections.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Another one says:- “<span>To begin the timing exercise you must statically time the engine at around
<b>10</b> degrees BTDC. With the engine at <b>10</b> degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic distributor
<b><i><u>so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning</u></i></b>. Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with the
engine running to <b>10</b> degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>(Ignore the 10° advice.) With reference to an Ignitor…..does this apply? And what is the “stator”? I can “assume” that it’s the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate……one
would have assume that the critical alignment point in the “stator” was prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in relation to the “stator”?? Any
</span><span></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I’ve timed them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I’ve used a timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the timing is completely
out and the engine won’t fire at all.</span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
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