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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Set the crankshaft at the desired
static ignition timing. Set the distributor housing with the rotor
in the approximate position of no.1 cylinder on its compression
stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the ignition and turn the
distributor forwards until you hear the faint click of the spark.
Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for fine
tuning the timing dynamically. <br>
Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get
damaged if left on for a long time.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">We’re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an
Ignitor II. In a positive earth BJ8.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The timing may be all to hell. I’m in the
UK; the car’s in Paris.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Let’s say that the clamp bolts “may somehow
have got loosened” during the initially successful swap from
points to Ignitor the other day. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">(Yes, it’s an old Ignitor but it was NOS,
boxed and unused, in the boot when the car was delivered.)</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now, I’ve been looking at my accumulated
notes on Static Timing etc with a view that we may have to go
down that track, if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark
but not necessarily in the right order!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I’ve accumulated a lot of info over the
years which is primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find
conflicting information.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">For example, one source says that the
Ignitor II cannot be static timed. Another source implies that
all EI’s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a
multimeter across the coil’s primary connections.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Another one says:- “<span>To begin the
timing exercise you must statically time the engine at
around <b>10</b> degrees BTDC. With the engine at <b>10</b>
degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so
that the points are just about to open or in the case of an
electronic distributor <b><i><u>so that the stator and
rotor tips are just aligning</u></i></b>. Lock the
distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum
advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start
the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with the
engine running to <b>10</b> degrees BTDC and lock the
distributor.”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>(Ignore the 10° advice.) With
reference to an Ignitor…..does this apply? And what is the
“stator”? I can “assume” that it’s the little curved black
box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the
Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate……one would have assume
that the critical alignment point in the “stator” was
prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I
suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method
and see where the rotor was in relation to the “stator”??
Any </span><span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Has anyone any tips on static timing
an Ignitor? I’ve timed them, but never had to go back to
Stage One ie I’ve used a timing light and made adjustments
to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the
timing is completely out and the engine won’t fire at all.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Any help would be much appreciated
and doubly so in Paris!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
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